the habit of paying taxes.  The enlightened ruler (this was written during the rule of Abbas Pasha) knows his own interests, and never willingly parts with a subject liable to cess, at times objecting even to their obeying pilgrimage law.  We, on the other hand, in India, allow a freedom of emigration, in my humble opinion, highly injurious to us.  For not only does this exodus thin the population, and tend to impoverish the land, it also serves to bring our rule into disrepute in foreign lands.  At another time I shall discuss this subject more fully. [FN#5] The glare of Alexandria has become a matter of fable in the East.  The stucco employed in overlaying its walls, erected by Zul-karnayn, was so exquisitely tempered and so beautifully polished, that the inhabitants, in order to protect themselves from blindness, were constrained to wear masks. [FN#6] The word literally means “a bowman, an archer,” reminding us of “les archers de la Sainte Hermandade,” in the most delicious of modern fictions.  Some mis-spell the word “Kawas,” “Cavass,” and so forth! [FN#7] A whip, a cravache of dried and twisted hippopotamus hide, the ferule, horsewhip, and “cat o’ nine tails” of Egypt. [FN#8] For “man anta?” who art thou? [FN#9] An opprobrious name given by the Turks to their Christian converts.  The word is derived from burmak, “to twist, to turn.” [FN#10] During my journey, and since my return, some Indian papers conducted by jocose editors made merry upon an Englishman “turning Turk.”  Once for all, I beg leave to point above for the facts of the case; it must serve as a general answer to any pleasant little fictions which may hereafter appear. [FN#11] A stick of soft wood chewed at one end.  It is generally used throughout the East, where brushes should be avoided, as the natives always suspect hogs’ bristles. [FN#12] Almost all Easterns sleep under a sheet, which becomes a kind of respirator, defending them from the dews and mosquitoes by night and the flies by day.  The “rough and ready” traveller will learn to follow the example, remembering that “Nature is founder of Customs in savage countries;” whereas, amongst the soi-disant civilised, Nature has no deadlier enemy than Custom. [FN#13] It is strictly forbidden to carry arms in Egypt.  This, however, does not prevent their being as necessary-especially in places like Alexandria, where Greek and Italian ruffians abound-as they ever were in Rome or Leghorn during the glorious times of Italian “liberty.” [FN#14] In the Azhar Mosque, immediately after Friday service, a fellow once put his hand into my pocket, which fact alone is ample evidence of “progress.” [FN#15] As a general rule, always produce, when travelling, the minutest bit of coin.  At present, however, small change is dear in Egypt; the Sarrafs, or money-changers, create the dearth in order to claim a high agio.  The traveller must prepare himself for a most unpleasant task in learning the different varieties of currency, which appear all but endless, the result of deficiency