and mosquito curtains in nights of heat.[FN#12] As shade is a convenience not always procurable, another necessary was a huge cotton umbrella of Eastern make, brightly yellow, suggesting the idea of an overgrown marigold.  I had also a substantial housewife, the gift of a kind relative, Miss Elizabeth Stisted; it was a roll of canvas, carefully soiled, and garnished with needles and thread, cobblers’ wax, buttons, and other such articles.  These things were most useful in lands where tailors abound not; besides which, the sight of a man darning his coat or patching his slippers teems with pleasing ideas of humility.  A dagger,[FN#13] a brass inkstand and pen-holder

[p.25]stuck in the belt, and a mighty rosary, which on occasion might have been converted into a weapon of offence, completed my equipment.  I must not omit to mention the proper method of carrying money, which in these lands should never be entrusted to box or bag.  A common cotton purse secured in a breast pocket (for Egypt now abounds in that civilised animal, the pick-pocket!), contained silver pieces and small change.[FN#14] My gold, of which I carried twenty-five sovereigns, and papers, were committed to a substantial leathern belt of Maghrabi manufacture, made to be strapped round the waist under the dress.  This is the Asiatic method of concealing valuables, and one more civilised than ours in the last century, when Roderic Random and his companion “sewed their money between the lining and the waist-band of their breeches, except some loose silver for immediate

[p.26]expense on the road.”  The great inconvenience of the belt is its weight, especially where dollars must be carried, as in Arabia, causing chafes and discomfort at night.  Moreover, it can scarcely be called safe.  In dangerous countries wary travellers will adopt surer precautions. [FN#16]

A pair of common native Khurjin, or saddle-bags, contained my wardrobe; the bed was readily rolled up into a bundle; and for a medicine chest[FN#17] I bought a pea-green box with red and yellow flowers, capable of standing falls from a camel twice a day.

[p.27]The next step was to find out when the local steamer would start for Cairo, and accordingly I betook myself to the Transit Office.  No vessel was advertised; I was directed to call every evening till satisfied.  At last the fortunate event took place:  a “weekly departure,” which, by the bye, occurred once every fortnight or so, was in orders for the next day.  I hurried to the office, but did not reach it till past noon-the hour of idleness.  A little, dark gentleman-Mr. Green-so formed and dressed as exactly to resemble a liver-and-tan bull-terrier, who with his heels on the table was dosing, cigar in mouth, over the last “Galignani,” positively refused, after a time,-for at first he would not speak at all,-to let me take my passage till three in the afternoon.  I inquired when the boat started, upon which he referred me, as I had spoken bad Italian, to the advertisement.  I pleaded inability to read or write, whereupon he testily cried Alle nove! alle nove!-at nine! at nine!  Still appearing uncertain, I drove him out of his chair, when he rose with a curse and read 8 A.M.  An unhappy Eastern, depending upon what he said, would have been precisely one hour too late.