“I have visited the Prophet’s tomb,”
preferring him to express himself thus-"I have visited
the Prophet.” Others again dislike the
latter formula, declaring the Prophet too venerable
to be so visited by Amr and Zayd. [FN#4] In A.D.
1807, they prevented Ali Bey (the Spaniard Badia) from
entering Al-Madinah, and it appears that he had reason
to congratulate himself upon escaping without severe
punishment. [FN#5] Nothing in the Spanish cathedrals
suggests their oriental origin and the taste of the
people, more than the way in which they are hedged
in by secular buildings. [FN#6] The ceremony of Ziyarat,
however, begins at the Bab al-Salam. We rode
up to this gate only in order to avoid the sun. [FN#7]
Haswah is a place covered with gravel: Ramlah,
one which is sanded over. Both are equally applicable,
and applied to the areas of Mosques. Al-Sahn
is the general word; Al-Hosh is occasionally used,
but is more properly applied to the court-yard of
a dwelling-house. [FN#8] This Riwak was begun about
five or six years ago by Abd al-Majid. To judge
from the size of the columns, and the other preparations
which encumber the ground, this part of the building
will surpass all the rest. But the people of
Al-Madinah assured me that it will not be finished
for some time,-a prophecy likely to be fulfilled by
the present state of Turkish finance. [FN#9] This
gate derives its peculiar name from its vicinity to
the Lady Fatimah’s tomb; women, when they do
visit the Mosque, enter it through all the doors indifferently.
[FN#10] It is so called by the figure synecdoche:
it contains the Rauzah or the Prophet’s Garden,
and therefore the whole portico enjoys that honoured
name. [FN#11] These carpets are swept by the eunuchs,
who let out the office for a certain fee to pilgrims,
every morning, immediately after sunrise. Their
diligence, however, does by no means prevent the presence
of certain little parasites, concerning which politeness
is dumb [FN#12] Because if not pure, ablution is
performed at the well in the centre of the hypaethra.
Zairs are ordered to visit the Mosque perfumed, and
in their best clothes, and the Hanafi school deems
it lawful on this occasion only to wear dresses of
pure silk. [FN#13] In this Mosque, as in all others,
it is proper to enter with the right foot, and to
retire with the left. [FN#14] I must warn the reader
that almost every Muzawwir has his own litany, which
descends from father to son: moreover, all the
books differ at least as much as do the oral authorities.
[FN#15] That is to say, “over the world, the
flesh, and the devil.” [FN#16] This by strangers
is called the Masalla Shafe’i, or the Place
of Prayer of the Shafe’i school. It was
sent from Constantinople about 100 years ago, by Sultan
Sulayman the Magnificent. He built the Sulaymaniyah
minaret, and has immortalised his name at Al-Madinah,
as well as at Meccah, by the number of his donations
to the shrine. [FN#17] Here is supposed to have been
one of the Prophet’s favourite stations of prayer.