Our voyage over the “summer sea” was eventless. In a steamer of two or three thousand tons you discover
[p.7]the once dreaded, now contemptible, “stormy waters” only by the band-a standing nuisance be it remarked-performing
“There we lay
All the day,
In the Bay of Biscay, O!”
The sight of glorious Trafalgar[FN#7]| excites none of the sentiments with which a tedious sail used to invest it. “Gib” is, probably, better known to you, by Theophile Gautier and Eliot Warburton, than the regions about Cornhill; besides which, you anchor under the Rock exactly long enough to land and to breakfast. Malta, too, wears an old familiar face, which bids you order a dinner and superintend the iceing of claret (beginning of Oriental barbarism), instead of galloping about on donkey-back through fiery air in memory of St. Paul and White-Cross Knights. But though our journey might be called monotonous, there was nothing to complain of. The ship was in every way comfortable; the cook, strange to say, was good, and the voyage lasted long enough, and not too long. On the evening of the thirteenth day after our start, the big-trowsered pilot, so lovely in his deformities to western eyes, made his appearance, and the good screw “Bengal” found herself at anchor off the Headland of Clay.[FN#8]
Having been invited to start from the house of a kind friend, John W. Larking, I disembarked with him, and