rude and wintry landscape of Cape Flattery.  Yet he is an active man, full of schemes; has bought land of the natives; has planted five thousand coco-palms; has a desert island in his eye, which he desires to lease, and a schooner in the stocks, which he has laid and built himself, and even hopes to finish.  Mr. M’Callum and I did not meet, but, like gallant troubadours, corresponded in verse.  I hope he will not consider it a breach of copyright if I give here a specimen of his muse.  He and Bishop Dordillon are the two European bards of the Marquesas.

’Sail, ho!  Ahoy!  Casco,
First among the pleasure fleet
That came around to greet
These isles from San Francisco,

And first, too; only one
Among the literary men
That this way has ever been —
Welcome, then, to Stevenson.

Please not offended be
At this little notice
Of the Casco, Captain Otis,
With the novelist’s family.

Avoir une voyage magnifical
Is our wish sincere,
That you’ll have from here
Allant sur la Grande Pacifical.’

But our chief visitor was one Mapiao, a great Tahuku—­which seems to mean priest, wizard, tattooer, practiser of any art, or, in a word, esoteric person—­and a man famed for his eloquence on public occasions and witty talk in private.  His first appearance was typical of the man.  He came down clamorous to the eastern landing, where the surf was running very high; scorned all our signals to go round the bay; carried his point, was brought aboard at some hazard to our skiff, and set down in one corner of the cockpit to his appointed task.  He had been hired, as one cunning in the art, to make my old men’s beards into a wreath:  what a wreath for Celia’s arbour!  His own beard (which he carried, for greater safety, in a sailor’s knot) was not merely the adornment of his age, but a substantial piece of property.  One hundred dollars was the estimated value; and as Brother Michel never knew a native to deposit a greater sum with Bishop Dordillon, our friend was a rich man in virtue of his chin.  He had something of an East Indian cast, but taller and stronger:  his nose hooked, his face narrow, his forehead very high, the whole elaborately tattooed.  I may say I have never entertained a guest so trying.  In the least particular he must be waited on; he would not go to the scuttle-butt for water; he would not even reach to get the glass, it must be given him in his hand; if aid were denied him, he would fold his arms, bow his head, and go without:  only the work would suffer.  Early the first forenoon he called aloud for biscuit and salmon; biscuit and ham were brought; he looked on them inscrutably, and signed they should be set aside.  A number of considerations crowded on my mind; how the sort of work on which he was engaged was probably tapu in a high degree; should by rights, perhaps, be transacted on a tapu platform which no female might approach; and it was possible that fish might be the essential