The people of Eastern Polynesia are never at a loss; their etiquette is absolute and plenary; in every circumstance it tells them what to do and how to do it.  The Gilbertines are seemingly more free, and pay for their freedom (like ourselves) in frequent perplexity.  This was often the case with the topsy-turvy couple.  We had once supplied them during a visit with a pipe and tobacco; and when they had smoked and were about to leave, they found themselves confronted with a problem:  should they take or leave what remained of the tobacco?  The piece of plug was taken up, it was laid down again, it was handed back and forth, and argued over, till the wife began to look haggard and the husband elderly.  They ended by taking it, and I wager were not yet clear of the compound before they were sure they had decided wrong.  Another time they had been given each a liberal cup of coffee, and Nan Tok’ with difficulty and disaffection made an end of his.  Nei Takauti had taken some, she had no mind for more, plainly conceived it would be a breach of manners to set down the cup unfinished, and ordered her wedded retainer to dispose of what was left.  ’I have swallowed all I can, I cannot swallow more, it is a physical impossibility,’ he seemed to say; and his stern officer reiterated her commands with secret imperative signals.  Luckless dog! but in mere humanity we came to the rescue and removed the cup.

I cannot but smile over this funny household; yet I remember the good souls with affection and respect.  Their attention to ourselves was surprising.  The garlands are much esteemed, the blossoms must be sought far and wide; and though they had many retainers to call to their aid, we often saw themselves passing afield after the blossoms, and the wife engaged with her own in putting them together.  It was no want of only that disregard so incident to husbands, that made Nei Takauti despise the sufferings of Nan Tok’.  When my wife was unwell she proved a diligent and kindly nurse; and the pair, to the extreme embarrassment of the sufferer, became fixtures in the sick-room.  This rugged, capable, imperious old dame, with the wild eyes, had deep and tender qualities:  her pride in her young husband it seemed that she dissembled, fearing possibly to spoil him; and when she spoke of her dead son there came something tragic in her face.  But I seemed to trace in the Gilbertines a virility of sense and sentiment which distinguishes them (like their harsh and uncouth language) from their brother islanders in the east.

PART IV:  THE GILBERTS—­APEMAMA

CHAPTER I—­THE KING OF APEMAMA:  THE ROYAL TRADER