The whole extent of the South Seas is a desert of ships; more especially that part where we were now to sail.  No post runs in these islands; communication is by accident; where you may have designed to go is one thing, where you shall be able to arrive another.  It was my hope, for instance, to have reached the Carolines, and returned to the light of day by way of Manila and the China ports; and it was in Samoa that we were destined to re-appear and be once more refreshed with the sight of mountains.  Since the sunset faded from the peaks of Oahu six months had intervened, and we had seen no spot of earth so high as an ordinary cottage.  Our path had been still on the flat sea, our dwellings upon unerected coral, our diet from the pickle-tub or out of tins; I had learned to welcome shark’s flesh for a variety; and a mountain, an onion, an Irish potato or a beef-steak, had been long lost to sense and dear to aspiration.

The two chief places of our stay, Butaritari and Apemama, lie near the line; the latter within thirty miles.  Both enjoy a superb ocean climate, days of blinding sun and bracing wind, nights of a heavenly brightness.  Both are somewhat wider than Fakarava, measuring perhaps (at the widest) a quarter of a mile from beach to beach.  In both, a coarse kind of taro thrives; its culture is a chief business of the natives, and the consequent mounds and ditches make miniature scenery and amuse the eye.  In all else they show the customary features of an atoll:  the low horizon, the expanse of the lagoon, the sedge-like rim of palm-tops, the sameness and smallness of the land, the hugely superior size and interest of sea and sky.  Life on such islands is in many points like life on shipboard.  The atoll, like the ship, is soon taken for granted; and the islanders, like the ship’s crew, become soon the centre of attention.  The isles are populous, independent, seats of kinglets, recently civilised, little visited.  In the last decade many changes have crept in; women no longer go unclothed till marriage; the widow no longer sleeps at night and goes abroad by day with the skull of her dead husband; and, fire-arms being introduced, the spear and the shark-tooth sword are sold for curiosities.  Ten years ago all these things and practices were to be seen in use; yet ten years more, and the old society will have entirely vanished.  We came in a happy moment to see its institutions still erect and (in Apemama) scarce decayed.

Populous and independent—­warrens of men, ruled over with some rustic pomp—­such was the first and still the recurring impression of these tiny lands.  As we stood across the lagoon for the town of Butaritari, a stretch of the low shore was seen to be crowded with the brown roofs of houses; those of the palace and king’s summer parlour (which are of corrugated iron) glittered near one end conspicuously bright; the royal colours flew hard by on a tall flagstaff; in front, on an artificial islet, the gaol played the part of a martello.  Even upon this first and distant view, the place had scarce the air of what it truly was, a village; rather of that which it was also, a petty metropolis, a city rustic and yet royal.