to have jumped down the crater, nor the site of Jericho
because the walls fell down at the trumpets of the
host. The only interest to me in an historical
scene is that it should be in such a condition as
that one can to a certain extent reconstruct the original
drama, and be sure that one’s eyes rest upon
very much the same scene as the actors saw. The
reason why Syracuse moved me by its acquired beauty,
and not for its historical associations, was because
I felt convinced that Thucydides, who gives so picturesque
a description of the sea-fight, can never have set
eyes on the place, and must have embroidered his account
from scanty hearsay. But, on the other hand,
there are few things in the world more profoundly
moving than to see a place where great thoughts have
been conceived and great books written, when one is
able to feel that the scene is hardly changed.
The other day, as I passed before the sacred gate
of Rydal Mount, I took my hat off my head with a sense
of indescribable reverence. My companion asked
me laughingly why I did so. “Why?”
I said. “From natural piety, of course!
I know every detail here as well as if I had lived
here, and I have walked in thought a hundred times
with the poet, to and fro in the laurelled walks of
the garden, up the green shoulder of Nab Scar, and
sat in the little parlour, while the fire leapt on
the hearth, and heard him ‘booing’ his
verses, to be copied by some friendly hand.”
I thrill to see the stately rooms of Abbotsford, with
all their sham feudal decorations, the little staircase
by which Scott stole away to his solitary work, the
folded clothes, the shapeless hat, the ugly shoes,
laid away in the glass case; the plantations where
he walked with his shrewd bailiff, the place where
he stopped so often on the shoulder of the slope,
to look at the Eildon Hills, the rooms where he sat,
a broken and bereaved man, yet with so gallant a spirit,
to wrestle with sorrow and adversity. I wept,
I am not ashamed to say, at Abbotsford, at the sight
of the stately Tweed rolling his silvery flood past
lawns and shrubberies, to think of that kindly, brave,
and honourable heart, and his passionate love of all
the goodly and cheerful joys of life and earth.
Or, again, it was a solemn day for me to pass from
the humble tenement where Coleridge lived, at Nether
Stowey, before the cloud of sad habit had darkened
his horizon, and turned him away from the wells of
poetry into the deserts of metaphysical speculation,
to find, if he could, some medicine for his tortured
spirit. I walked with a holy awe along the leafy
lanes to Alfoxden, where the beautiful house nestles
in the green combe among its oaks, thinking how here,
and here, Wordsworth and Coleridge had walked together
in the glad days of youth, and planned, in obscurity
and secluded joy, the fresh and lovely lyrics of their
matin-prime.