little settlements to which the troops retire after doing their shift under fire.  This particular colony has been developed to an extreme degree of comfort and safety.  The houses are partly underground, connected by deep winding “bowels” over which light rustic bridges have been thrown, and so profoundly roofed with sods that as much of them as shows above ground is shell-proof.  Yet they are real houses, with real doors and windows under their grass-eaves, real furniture inside, and real beds of daisies and pansies at their doors.  In the Colonel’s bungalow a big bunch of spring flowers bloomed on the table, and everywhere we saw the same neatness and order, the same amused pride in the look of things.  The men were dining at long trestle-tables under the trees; tired, unshaven men in shabby uniforms of all cuts and almost every colour.  They were off duty, relaxed, in a good humour; but every face had the look of the faces watching on the hill-top.  Wherever I go among these men of the front I have the same impression:  the impression that the absorbing undivided thought of the Defense of France lives in the heart and brain of each soldier as intensely as in the heart and brain of their chief.

We walked a dozen yards down the road and came to the edge of the forest.  A wattled palisade bounded it, and through a gap in the palisade we looked out across a field to the roofs of a quiet village a mile away.  I went out a few steps into the field and was abruptly pulled back.  “Take care—­those are the trenches!” What looked like a ridge thrown up by a plough was the enemy’s line; and in the quiet village French cannon watched.  Suddenly, as we stood there, they woke, and at the same moment we heard the unmistakable Gr-r-r of an aeroplane and saw a Bird of Evil high up against the blue.  Snap, snap, snap barked the mitrailleuse on the hill, the soldiers jumped from their wine and strained their eyes through the trees, and the Taube, finding itself the centre of so much attention, turned grey tail and swished away to the concealing clouds.

May 17th.

Today we started with an intenser sense of adventure.  Hitherto we had always been told beforehand where we were going and how much we were to be allowed to see; but now we were being launched into the unknown.  Beyond a certain point all was conjecture—­we knew only that what happened after that would depend on the good-will of a Colonel of Chasseurs-a-pied whom we were to go a long way to find, up into the folds of the mountains on our southeast horizon.

We picked up a staff-officer at Head-quarters and flew on to a battered town on the edge of the hills.  From there we wound up through a narrowing valley, under wooded cliffs, to a little settlement where the Colonel of the Brigade was to be found.  There was a short conference between the Colonel and our staff-officer, and then we annexed a Captain of Chasseurs and spun away again.  Our road lay through a town so exposed that our companion from Head-quarters suggested the advisability of avoiding it; but our guide hadn’t the heart to inflict such a disappointment on his new acquaintances.  “Oh, we won’t stop the motor—­we’ll just dash through,” he said indulgently; and in the excess of his indulgence he even permitted us to dash slowly.