sit down to a tempting supper of stewed hare and tortillas.
We were officers and caballeros and could not be
ignored. After turning our horses to grass, at
his invitation we joined him at supper. The
allowance, though ample for one, was rather short
for three, and I thought the Spanish grandiloquent
politeness of Gomez, who was fat and old, was not over-cordial.
However, down we sat, and I was helped to a dish of
rabbit, with what I thought to be an abundant sauce
of tomato. Taking a good mouthful, I felt as
though I had taken liquid fire; the tomato was chile
colorado, or red pepper, of the purest kind.
It nearly killed me, and I saw Gomez’s eyes
twinkle, for he saw that his share of supper was increased.—I
contented myself with bits of the meat, and an abundant
supply of tortillas. Ord was better case-hardened,
and stood it better. We staid at Gomez’s
that night, sleeping, as all did, on the ground, and
the next morning we crossed the hill by the bridle-path
to the old Mission of San Juan Bautista. The
Mission was in a beautiful valley, very level, and
bounded on all sides by hills. The plain was
covered with wild-grasses and mustard, and had abundant
water. Cattle and horses were seen in all directions,
and it was manifest that the priests who first occupied
the country were good judges of land. It was
Sunday, and all the people, about, a hundred, had come
to church from the country round about. Ord
was somewhat of a Catholic, and entered the church
with his clanking spars and kneeled down, attracting
the attention of all, for he had on the uniform of
an American officer. As soon as church was out,
all rushed to the various sports. I saw the
priest, with his gray robes tucked up, playing at
billiards, others were cock fighting, and some at
horse-racing. My horse had become lame, and I
resolved to buy another. As soon as it was known
that I wanted a horse, several came for me, and displayed
their horses by dashing past and hauling them up short.
There was a fine black stallion that attracted my
notice, and, after trying him myself, I concluded a
purchase. I left with the seller my own lame
horse, which he was to bring to me at Monterey, when
I was to pay him ten dollars for the other.
The Mission of San Juan bore the marks of high prosperity
at a former period, and had a good pear-orchard just
under the plateau where stood the church. After
spending the day, Ord and I returned to Monterey,
about thirty-five miles, by a shorter route, Thus
passed the month of February, and, though there were
no mails or regular expresses, we heard occasionally
from Yerba Buena and Sutter’s Fort to the north,
and from the army and navy about Los Angeles at the
south. We also knew that a quarrel had grown
up at Los Angeles, between General Kearney, Colonel
Fremont, and Commodore Stockton, as to the right to
control affairs in California. Kearney had with
him only the fragments of the two companies of dragoons,
which had come across from New Mexico with him, and