Water-Wise Cucurbits

The root systems of this family are far more extensive than most people realize.  Usually a taproot goes down several feet and then, soil conditions permitting, thickly occupies a large area, ultimately reaching down 5 to 8 feet.  Shallow feeder roots also extend laterally as far as or farther than the vines reach at their greatest extent.

Dry gardeners can do several things to assist cucurbits.  First, make sure there is absolutely no competition in their root zone.  This means[i]one plant per hill, with the hills separated in all directions a little farther than the greatest possible extent of the variety’s ultimate growth.[i] Common garden lore states that squashes droop their leaves in midsummer heat and that this trait cannot be avoided and does no harm.  But if they’ve grown as described above, on deep, open soil, capillarity and surface moisture reserves ensure there usually will be no midday wilting, even if there is no watering.  Two plants per hill do compete and make each other wilt.

Second, double dig and fertilize the entire lateral root zone.  Third, as much as possible, avoid walking where the vines will ultimately reach to avoid compaction.  Finally, [i]do not transplant them.[i] This breaks the taproot and makes the plant more dependent on lateral roots seeking moisture in the top 18 inches of soil.

Melons

Sowing date: As soon as they’ll germinate outdoors:  at Elkton, May 15 to June 1.  Thin to a single plant per hill when there are about three true leaves and the vines are beginning to run.

Spacing: Most varieties will grow a vine reaching about 8 feet in diameter.  Space the hills 8 feet apart in all directions.

Irrigation: Fertigation every two to three weeks will increase the yield by two or three times and may make the melons sweeter.  Release the water/fertilizer mix close to the center of the vine, where the taproot can use it.

Varieties: Adaptation to our cool climate is critical with melons; use varieties sold by our regional seed companies.  Yellow Doll watermelons (TSC) are very early and seem the most productive under the most droughty conditions.  I’ve had reasonable results from most otherwise regionally adapted cantaloupes and muskmelons.  Last year a new hybrid variety, Passport (TSC), proved several weeks earlier than I’d ever experienced and was extraordinarily prolific and tasty.

Onions/Scallions

The usual spring-sown, summer-grown bulb onions and scallions only work with abundant irrigation.  But the water-short, water-wise gardener can still supply the kitchen with onions or onion substitutes year-round.  Leeks take care of November through early April.  Overwintered bulb onions handle the rest of the year.  Scallions may also be harvested during winter.