age, wrapped at all times in dirty rags (not to be called clothing), obese, grimy, with dishevelled black hair, and hands so scarred, so deformed by labour and neglect, as to be scarcely human.  She had the darkest and fiercest eyes I ever saw.  Between her and her mistress went on an unceasing quarrel:  they quarrelled in my room, in the corridor, and, as I knew by their shrill voices, in places remote; yet I am sure they did not dislike each other, and probably neither of them ever thought of parting.  Unexpectedly, one evening, this woman entered, stood by the bedside, and began to talk with such fierce energy, with such flashing of her black eyes, and such distortion of her features, that I could only suppose that she was attacking me for the trouble I caused her.  A minute or two passed before I could even hit the drift of her furious speech; she was always the most difficult of the natives to understand, and in rage she became quite unintelligible.  Little by little, by dint of questioning, I got at what she meant.  There had been guai, worse than usual; the mistress had reviled her unendurably for some fault or other, and was it not hard that she should be used like this after having tanto, tanto lavorato!  In fact, she was appealing for my sympathy, not abusing me at all.  When she went on to say that she was alone in the world, that all her kith and kin were freddi morti (stone dead), a pathos in her aspect and her words took hold upon me; it was much as if some heavy-laden beast of burden had suddenly found tongue, and protested in the rude beginnings of articulate utterance against its hard lot.  If only one could have learnt, in intimate detail, the life of this domestic serf!  How interesting, and how sordidly picturesque against the background of romantic landscape, of scenic history!  I looked long into her sallow, wrinkled face, trying to imagine the thoughts that ruled its expression.  In some measure my efforts at kindly speech succeeded, and her “Ah, Cristo!” as she turned to go away, was not without a touch of solace.

Another time my hostess fell foul of the waiter, because he had brought me goat’s milk which was very sour.  There ensued the most comical scene.  In an access of fury the stout woman raged and stormed; the waiter, a lank young fellow, with a simple, good-natured face, after trying to explain that he had committed the fault by inadvertence, suddenly raised his hand, like one about to exhort a congregation, and exclaimed in a tone of injured remonstrance, “Un po’ di calma!  Un po’ di calma!” My explosion of laughter at this inimitable utterance put an end to the strife.  The youth laughed with me; his mistress bustled him out of the room, and then began to inform me that he was weak in his head.  Ah! she exclaimed, her life with these people! what it cost her to keep them in anything like order!  When she retired, I heard her expectorating violently in the corridor; a habit with every inmate of this genial hostelry.