and much misgiving they drifted on between mile-high
cliffs, rising terrace on terrace to the very sky
itself. Even now, when the dangers are known and
tested, no man lives who can enter the great chasm
for a voyage to the other end without feeling anxiety
as to the result, and the more anxiety he feels, the
more probability there is that he will pass the barriers
safely. Running rapids and passing falls by portages
and let-downs, they met no formidable obstacle till
August 14th, when they ran into a granite formation,
the “First Granite Gorge.” While the
gorge was wide above, it grew narrower as the river
level was approached, till the walls were closer than
anywhere farther up; and they were ragged and serrated.
They had noticed that hard rocks had produced bad river,
and soft rocks smooth water; now they were in a series
of rocks harder than any before encountered.
There was absolutely no way of telling what the waters
might do in such a formation, which ran up till a
thousand feet of it stood above their heads, supporting
more than four thousand feet more of sedimentary rocks,
making a grand total of between five thousand and
six thousand feet. The same day on which they
entered the granite they arrived, after running, and
portaging around, several bad rapids, at a terrific
fall, announced by a loud roar like the steady boom
of Niagara, reverberating back and forth from wall
to wall, and filling the whole gorge with its ominous
note. The river was beaten to a solid sheet of
reeling foam for a third of a mile. There was
but one choice, but one path for the boats, and that
lay through the midst of it, for on each side the
waves pounded violently against the jagged cliffs which
so closely hemmed them in. Men might climb up
to the top of the granite and find their way around
the obstruction, one thousand feet above it, descending
again a mile or two down, but they could not take the
boats over such a road. They must, therefore,
run the place, a fall of about eighty feet in the
third of a mile, or give up the descent. So they
got into their boats and started on the smooth waters,
so soon shattered into raging billows. Though
filled with water, the boats all rode successfully
and came out below crowned with success. Often
a rapid is greatly augmented by enormous boulders which
have been washed into the river from some side canyon,
and, acting like a dam, block the water up and cause
it to roar and fret tenfold more. Black and dismal
is this granite gorge; sharp and terrible the rapids,
whose sheeted foam becomes fairly iridescent by contrast.
The method of working around some of the worst places
is illustrated well by the following extract: