we made good progress, eight or nine miles without trying.  The rations were limited in variety, but were abundant of their kind, being almost entirely bread and black coffee.  When we tried, we made great runs, one day easily accomplishing about forty miles.  The San Juan was now a powerful stream, as we saw on passing.  At the Music Temple we camped, and I cut Hillers’s and my name on the rocks.  Fennemore made a picture of the place, given on page 215.  On the 13th of July, we reached the Paria, where we expected to find several of our party, but they were not there.  We discovered that someone had come in here since our last visit, and built a house.  It proved to be John D. Lee, of Mountain Meadow Massacre notoriety, who had established a home here for one of his two remaining wives.  He called the place Lonely Dell, and it was not a misnomer.  It is now known as Lee’s Ferry.  Mrs. Lee proved to be an agreeable woman, and she and her husband treated us very kindly, inviting us, as we had nothing but bread and coffee, to share their table, an offer we gladly accepted.  Here Johnson and Fennemore left us, going out with Lee to Kanab, and two days later we were relieved to see some of our men arrive with a large amount of supplies and mail.  We then waited for the coming of Powell and Thompson with the others, when we were to cast off and run the gauntlet of the Grand Canyon.

CHAPTER XIII

A Canyon through Marble—­Multitudinous Rapids—­Running the
Sockdologer—­A Difficult Portage, Rising Water, and a Trap—­The Dean
Upside Down—­A Close Shave—­Whirlpools and Fountains—­The Kanab
Canyon and the End of the Voyage.

By referring to the relief map opposite page 41, the mouth of the Paria is seen a trifle more than half-way up the right-hand side.  The walls of Glen Canyon here recede from the river and become on the south the Echo Cliffs, taking the name from the Echo Peaks which form their beginning, and on the north the Vermilion Cliffs, so called by Powell because of their bright red colour.  The latter, and the canyon of the Paria, make the edges of the great mesa called the Paria Plateau, and, running on north to the very head of the Kaibab uplift, strike off south-westerly to near Pipe Spring, where they turn and run in a north-west direction to the Virgen River.  Between the receding lines of these cliffs, at the Paria, is practically the head of the Grand Canyon.  The river at once begins an attack on the underlying strata, and the resulting canyon, while at first not more than two hundred feet deep, rapidly increases this depth, as the strata run up and the river runs down.  The canyon is narrow, and seen from a height resembles, as previously mentioned, a dark serpent lying across a plain.  As the formation down to the Little Colorado is mainly a fine-grained grey marble, Powell concluded to call this division by a separate name, and gave it the title it now bears, Marble Canyon.  There