Grand Canyon” was had, and they were fairly
on the road; as rough a road, going down, as one can
well imagine, but going up in the teeth of the torrential
rapids, hemmed in by close granite walls, it is about
as near the impossible as anything that is not absolutely
so could be. Wheeler certainly deserves credit
for one thing in this haphazard affair, and that is
for a splendid courage and abundant nerve, in which
he was well supported by Gilbert’s cool fortitude
and indomitable spirit. Once, when I was discussing
this journey with Stanton, who, at a later period,
came down the gorge, he would hardly admit that Wheeler
actually did reach Diamond Creek: he thought the
ascent impossible. The second day in the canyon
five rapids were passed within two miles, and, on
the next, nine were overcome before noon, and before
sunset, fifteen, showing that the party were working
with all the nerve and muscle they possessed.
On this day they passed the monument Gass and his
companions had erected at their farthest point in
1864. The rapids were now “more formidable”
than any yet seen, and Wheeler was “satisfied”
that no one had ever gone higher. This was true,
and it is probable no one will ever try to go up this
portion again. The way to make the passage is
from above, the work being less and the danger no
greater. Wherever a portage can be made going
up it can also be made going down. The river was
compressed to seventy-five feet in one place on this
day. On the l0th they made about five miles,
and met with a serious accident: two of the boats
were carried back over a rapid, but were luckily secured
again without having suffered damage. The declivity
was now very great, and the stream flowed along between
solid granite, where footing was both difficult and
dangerous, and pulling the boats up over the rocks
taxed the combined strength of the crews. Everything
had to be unloaded at one bad place and the first
boat was nearly swamped. All could not be taken
up before dark, so a “dreary camp is made among
the debris of the slopes, where, cuddled up Indian-fashion,
the weary hours of the night are passed.”
The labour was tremendous, and two of the party became
ill: one, a Mohave, who was badly bruised by being
thrown upon the rocks. Wheeler now began to despair
of reaching Diamond Creek, and well he might, but
he concluded that he could get there if the men and
the boats would but hold together. The next day,
another series of rapids was surmounted, and then came
a particularly bad-looking one. The first boat
was filled instantly with water, swamped, and thrown
back against the rocks “almost a perfect wreck,
and its contents were washed down below the overhanging
rocks.” A package of Wheeler’s valuable
papers was lost, also a lot of expensive instruments,
the astronomical and meteorological observations,
and the entire cargo of rations. This was a discouraging
disaster, and came near compelling the retreat of the
whole party. Darkness came on, and they were obliged