next day was a drop of about twenty feet in twenty
yards; a sharp plunge of the river in one mass.
As it seemed free from rocks in the middle a run was
decided on. We therefore pulled squarely into
it. On both sides the river was beaten to solid
foam amongst the rocks, but in the middle, where we
were, there was a clean chute, followed by a long
tail of ugly waves. We were entirely successful,
though the waves broke over my head till they almost
took my breath away. The walls reached a height
of twenty-five hundred feet, seeming to us almost
perpendicular on both sides. It was the narrowest
deep chasm we had yet seen, and beneath these majestic
cliffs we ourselves appeared mere pigmies, creeping
about with our feeble strength to overcome the tremendous
difficulties. The loud reverberation of the roaring
water, the rugged rocks, the toppling walls, the narrow
sky, all combined to make this a fearful place, which
no pen can adequately describe. Another day the
Major and I climbed out, reaching an altitude, some
distance back from the brink, 3135 feet above the
river. The day after this climb the walls ran
up to about twenty-seven hundred feet, apparently in
places absolutely vertical, though Stanton, who came
through here in 1890, said he did not think they were
anywhere perpendicular to the top. The tongue
of a bend we found always more or less broken, but
in the curve the cliffs certainly had all the effect
of absolute perpendicularity, and in one place I estimated
that if a rock should fall from the brink it would
have struck on or near our boat. This shows,
at any rate, that the walls were very straight.
The boats seemed mere wisps of straw by comparison,
and once when I saw one which had preceded ours, lying
at the end of a clear stretch, I was startled by the
insignificance of the craft on which our lives depended.
Beaman tried to take some photographs which should
give this height in full, but the place was far beyond
the power of any camera. In this locality there
seemed to be no possibility of a man’s finding
a way to the summit. I concluded that at high
water this part of Cataract Canyon would probably
annihilate any human being venturing into it, though
it is possible high water would make it easier.
Where there was driftwood it was in tremendous piles,
wedged together in inextricable confusion; hundreds
of tree-trunks, large and small, battered and cut
and limbless, with the ends pounded into a spongy
lot of splinters. The interstices between the
large logs were filled with smaller stuff, like boughs,
railroad-ties, and pieces of dressed timber which
had been swept away from the region above the Union
Pacific Railway. Picture this narrow canyon twenty-seven
hundred feet deep, at high water, with a muddy booming
torrent at its bottom, sweeping along logs and all
kinds of floating debris, and then think of being
in there with a boat!