the elopers near the end of the valley, where they were very happy in a good camp with a fresh deer and plenty of vermilion, which they used liberally their faces.  Below this the river was full of beaver, and had Pattie or some of the early trappers been there, they could have reaped a rich harvest.  The current was slow, and Thompson read Emerson aloud as we drifted.  Gradually the hills began to grow rocky, and then distinct low cliffs appeared, till finally we discovered ourselves fairly within the walls of another canyon, which from the barren character of its cliffs is called the Canyon of Desolation.  It is ninety-seven miles long, and immediately at its foot is Gray Canyon, thirty-six miles long.  Then comes Gunnison Valley, and it was there that Powell was to return to us.  The first indication of descending waters was a slight swiftness, the river having narrowed up to its canyon-character.  At one place it doubled back on itself, forming in the bend a splendid amphitheatre which was called after Sumner of the former party.  This beautiful wall, about one thousand feet high, was carved and sculptured by the forces of erosion in a most wonderful manner.  It is shown on page 205.  After a few miles between such walls we began to expect rapids, and hardly had the expectation been formed when it was gratified.  An increasing roar came to our ears, and as we rounded a bend three were discovered before us within the space of half a mile.  The water had been continually falling till now it was so low that these rapids exhibited a startling number of rocks amidst the foam.  We believed we could run them, and we did.  The first was cleared easily.  In the second the Nell struck a submerged rock, but glanced over it without damage, while our boat landed squarely on the top, for it could not be seen from above, and, after a momentary quiver, hung there as the wave which lifted us upon it receded.  The water roared and boiled furiously about us, but did not quite come into the boat.  It was impossible to dip the oars from the stationary boat on account of the force of the current.  At last Hillers perceived that the sticking point was almost under the extremity of the keel.  Getting out cautiously over the stern he succeeded in touching the top of the rock, and, thus lightened, the Dean shot forward, though not before Hillers, who had not let go of the stern rowlock, was able to leap on board.  The Canonita fared still worse.  Following us too close, she tried to pass, but struck another rock, crushing in her side, though floating down nevertheless.  An hour and a half spent on her put her in good order again, and away we went, running a third and a fourth with no trouble.  The walls were now about two thousand feet high and we felt quite at home.  Through some of the upper narrow promontories of sandstone there were large holes, or arches, some of them probably a hundred or more feet in diameter.  They were similar to the Hole in the Wall, shown in the cut on