way. The current was so swift all the time that
objects on shore flitted past as they do when one
looks from a window of a railway train. Just
opposite our camp on this night the cliff was almost
perpendicular from the water’s edge to the height
of about twenty-five hundred feet. The walls
seemed very close together, only a narrow strip of
sky being visible. As we sat after supper peering
aloft at this ribbon of the heavens, the stars in
the clear sky came slowly out like some wonderful
transformation scene, and just on the edge of the
opposite wall, resembling an exquisite and brilliant
jewel, appeared the constellation of the Harp.
Immediately the name “Cliff of the Harp”
suggested itself and from that moment it was so called.
Here and there we discovered evidences of the former
journey, but nothing to indicate that human beings
had ever before, that been below Disaster Falls.
There we saw the same indications of an early disaster
which Powell had noticed on the first trip, a rusty
bake-oven, some knives and forks and tin plates, in
the sand at the foot of the second fall. The
day after the Cliff of the Harp camp we began by making
a line-portage around a very ugly place, which took
the whole morning. In the afternoon there was
another similar task, so that by night we had made
only three or four miles, and camped at the beginning
of a decidedly forbidding stretch. Just below
us were three sharp rapids which received the name
of Triplet Tails. A great deal of work was required
to pass these, and then we ran three or four in good
style, which brought us, in the late afternoon, to
where the whole river spread out amongst innumerable
rocks and for more than half a mile the water was
a solid sheet of milky foam, sending up the usual
wild roar, which echoed and echoed again and again
amongst the cliffs around and above us. Some one
proposed the name of “Hell’s Half-Mile”
for this terrible place and the idea was at once adopted,
so appropriate did it seem. The turmoil of the
dashing waters was almost deafening, and, even when
separated by only a few feet, we could only communicate
with each other by shouting at the top of our lungs.
It was a difficult task to get our little ships safely
below this half-mile, but it was finally accomplished,
and on we went in search of the next dragon’s
claw. At our camp the fire in some way got into
a pine grove and soon was crackling enough to rival
the noise of the rapid. The lower region seemed
now to be sending its flames up through the bottom
of the gorge and the black smoke rolled into the sky
far above the top of the walls. Many and varied
were our experiences in this magnificent canyon, which
for picturesqueness and beauty rivals even the Grand
Canyon, though not on such a giant scale. Its
passage would probably be far easier at low water.
At last, one evening, as the soft twilight was settling
into the chasm, a strange, though agreeable silence,
that seemed almost oppressive, fell around us.