As we drew near the Mission, we saw the great gate thrown open, and the padre standing on the steps, with a crucifix in his hand.  The Mission is a large and deserted-looking place, the out-buildings going to ruin, and everything giving one the impression of decayed grandeur.  A large stone fountain threw out pure water, from four mouths, into a basin, before the church door; and we were on the point of riding up to let our horses drink, when it occurred to us that it might be consecrated, and we forebore.  Just at this moment, the bells set up their harsh, discordant clangor, and the procession moved into the court.  I wished to follow, and see the ceremony, but the horse of one of my companions had become frightened, and was tearing off toward the town; and, having thrown his rider, and got one of his hoofs caught in the tackling of the saddle, which had slipped, was fast dragging and ripping it to pieces.  Knowing that my shipmate could not speak a word of Spanish, and fearing that he would get into difficulty, I was obliged to leave the ceremony and ride after him.  I soon overtook him, trudging along, swearing at the horse, and carrying the remains of the saddle, which he had picked up on the road.  Going to the owner of the horse, we made a settlement with him, and found him surprisingly liberal.  All parts of the saddle were brought back, and, being capable of repair, he was satisfied with six reals.  We thought it would have been a few dollars.  We pointed to the horse, which was now half-way up one of the mountains; but he shook his head, saying, ``No importa!’’ and giving us to understand that he had plenty more.

Having returned to the town, we saw a crowd collected in the square before the principal pulperia, and, riding up, found that all these people—­ men, women, and children—­ had been drawn together by a couple of bantam cocks.  The cocks were in full tilt, springing into one another, and the people were as eager, laughing and shouting, as though the combatants had been men.  There had been a disappointment about the bull; he had broken his bail, and taken himself off, and it was too late to get another, so the people were obliged to put up with a cock-fight.  One of the bantams having been knocked in the head, and having an eye put out, gave in, and two monstrous prize-cocks were brought on.  These were the object of the whole affair; the bantams having been merely served up as a first course, to collect the people together.  Two fellows came into the ring holding the cocks in their arms, and stroking them, and running about on all-fours, encouraging and setting them on.  Bets ran high, and, like most other contests, it remained for some time undecided.  Both cocks showed great pluck, and fought probably better and longer than their masters would have done.  Whether, in the end, it was the white or the red that beat, I do not recollect, but whichever it was, he strutted off with the true veni-vidi-vici look, leaving the other lying panting on his beam-ends.