Directly before us rose the perpendicular height of
four or five hundred feet. How we were to get
hides down, or goods up, upon the table-land on which
the Mission was situated, was more than we could tell.
The agent had taken a long circuit, and yet had frequently
to jump over breaks, and climb steep places, in the
ascent. No animal but a man or a monkey could
get up it. However, that was not our lookout;
and, knowing that the agent would be gone an hour
or more, we strolled about, picking up shells, and
following the sea where it tumbled in, roaring and
spouting, among the crevices of the great rocks.
What a sight, thought I, must this be in a southeaster!
The rocks were as large as those of Nahant or Newport,
but, to my eye, more grand and broken. Beside,
there was a grandeur in everything around, which gave
a solemnity to the scene, a silence and solitariness
which affected every part! Not a human being but
ourselves for miles, and no sound heard but the pulsations
of the great Pacific! and the great steep hill rising
like a wall, and cutting us off from all the world,
but the ``world of waters’’ ! I separated
myself from the rest, and sat down on a rock, just
where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn.
Compared with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest
of the coast, this grandeur was as refreshing as a
great rock in a weary land. It was almost the
first time that I had been positively alone—
free from the sense that human beings were at my elbow,
if not talking with me— since I had left
home. My better nature returned strong upon me.
Everything was in accordance with my state of feeling,
and I experienced a glow of pleasure at finding that
what of poetry and romance I ever had in me had not
been entirely deadened by the laborious life, with
its paltry, vulgar associations, which I had been
leading. Nearly an hour did I sit, almost lost
in the luxury of this entire new scene of the play
in which I had been so long acting, when I was aroused
by the distant shouts of my companions, and saw that
they were collecting together, as the agent had made
his appearance, on his way back to our boat.
We pulled aboard, and found the long-boat hoisted
out, and nearly laden with goods; and, after dinner,
we all went on shore in the quarter-boat, with the
long-boat in tow. As we drew in, we descried
an ox-cart and a couple of men standing directly on
the brow of the hill; and having landed, the captain
took his way round the hill, ordering me and one other
to follow him. We followed, picking our way out,
and jumping and scrambling up, walking over briers
and prickly pears, until we came to the top.
Here the country stretched out for miles, as far as
the eye could reach, on a level, table surface, and
the only habitation in sight was the small white mission
of San Juan Capistrano, with a few Indian huts about
it, standing in a small hollow, about a mile from
where we were. Reaching the brow of the hill,
where the cart stood, we found several piles of hides,
and Indians sitting round them. One or two other
carts were coming slowly on from the Mission, and
the captain told us to begin and throw the hides down.
This, then, was the way they were to be got down,—
thrown down, one at a time, a distance of four hundred
feet! This was doing the business on a great
scale. Standing on the edge of the hill, and
looking down the perpendicular height, the sailors