are never many where the bulldogs are plentiful, as these big fellows eat the mosquitoes.  I did not see them doing it, but certain it is that when they were about in large numbers there were very few mosquitoes.  They bit hard, and made the blood run.  They were so big and such noisy creatures that their horrible buzzing sent the cold chills chasing over me whenever they made an attack.  Still they were not so bad as mosquitoes.

And now we were afloat again on beautiful smooth water.  The lake stretched away to the southwest six and a half miles.  We camped that evening on a rocky ridge stretching out in serpent-like form from the west shore of the lake above.  The ridge was not more than fifty feet wide, but it was one mile long.  The rocks were grown over with moss, and the willows and a few evergreens added their touch of beauty.  These long narrow points were a characteristic feature of the lakes of the upper plateau.  In this and the lakes above, through which we passed the day following, there were many small, rocky islands, some of them willow covered, some wooded.  The shores everywhere were wooded, but the difference in size in the trees was now quite marked.  They were much smaller than on the river below.  The water was clear, and we could see the lake beds strewn with huge boulders, some of them reaching to very near the surface.  Here we began to see signs of the Indians again, occasional standing wigwam poles showing among the green woods.

Passing four of these lakes, we came to where the river flows in from the south down three heavy rapids.  On the west side of its entrance to the lake we found the old trail.  The blazing was weather worn and old, but the trail was a good one, and had been much used in the days long ago.  The portage was little more than a quarter of a mile long, and we put our canoes into the water again in a tiny bay above the islands.

While the men took their loads forward I set up my fishing-rod for the first time.  Every day I had felt ashamed that it had not been done before, but every day I put it off.  I never cared greatly for fishing, much as I had loved to be with my husband on the lakes and streams.  Mr. Hubbard could never understand it, for more than any other inanimate thing on earth he loved a fishing-rod, and to whip a trout stream was to him pure delight.  As I made a few casts near the foot of the rapid, my heart grew heavier every minute.  I almost hated the rod, and soon I took it down feeling that I could never touch it again.

In the bay above the falls we saw a mother duck and her flock of little ones, the first we had seen so far on our trip.  In the afternoon we passed up the short reach of river into another lake, the largest we had yet seen, stretching miles away to east and west, we could not tell how far.  We could see, the men thought, about ten miles to the east, and twelve to fifteen west.  The lake seemed to average about four miles in width.  The narrowest part was where we entered it, and on the opposite shore, three miles away, rose a high hill.  It seemed as if we might even now be on Michikamau, perhaps shut from the main body of the lake only by the islands.  From the hill we should be able to see we thought, and so paddled towards it.