Bishop had his stool in the church of St. Donatian,
till this was destroyed by the foolish Revolutionaries
in 1799. In a side-chapel of Notre Dame, and carefully
boarded up for no reason in the world save to extort
a verger’s fee for their exhibition, are the
splendid black marble monuments, with recumbent figures
in copper gilt, of Charles the Bold, who fell at Nancy
in 1477 (but lives for ever, with Louis XI. of France,
in the pages of “Quentin Durward"), and of his
daughter, Mary, the wife of the Emperor Maximilian,
of Austria, who was killed by being thrown from her
horse whilst hunting in 1482. These two tombs
are of capital interest to those who are students of
Belgian history, for Charles the Bold was the last
male of the House of Burgundy, and it was by the marriage
of his daughter that the Netherlands passed to the
House of Hapsburg, and thus ultimately fell under
the flail of religious persecution during the rule
of her grandson, Spanish Philip. Close to Notre
Dame, in the Rue St. Catherine, is the famous old
Hospital of St. Jean, the red-brick walls of which
rise sleepily from the dull waters of the canal, just
as Queens’ College, or St. John’s, at Cambridge,
rise from the sluggish Cam. Here is preserved
the rich shrine, or chasse, “resembling a large
Noah’s ark,” of St. Ursula, the sides of
which are painted with scenes from the virgin’s
life by Hans Memling, who, though born in the neighbourhood
of Mayence, and thus really by birth a German, lived
for nearly a quarter of a century or more of his life
in Bruges, and is emphatically connected, like his
master Roger van der Weyden and the brothers Van Eyck,
with the charming early Flemish school. There
is a story that he was wounded under Charles le Temeraire
on the stricken field of Nancy, and painted these
gemlike pictures in return for the care and nursing
that he received in the Hospital of St. Jean, but “this
story,” says Professor Anton Springer, “may
be placed in the same category as those of Durer’s
malevolent spouse, and of the licentiousness of the
later Dutch painters.” These scenes from
the life of St. Ursula are hardly less delightfully
quaint than the somewhat similar series that was painted
by Carpaccio for the scuola of the Saint at Venice,
and that are now preserved in the Accademia.
Early Flemish painting, in fact, in addition to its
own peculiar charm of microscopic delicacy of finish,
is hardly inferior, in contrast with the later strong
realism and occasional coarseness of Rubens or Rembrandt,
to the tender poetic dreaminess of the primitive Italians.
Certainly these pictures, though finished to the minutest
and most delicate detail, are lacking in realism actually
to a degree that borders on a delicious absurdity.
St. Ursula and her maidens—whether really
eleven thousand or eleven—in the final
scene of martyrdom await the stroke of death with
the stoical placidity of a regiment of dolls.
“All the faces are essentially Flemish, and some
of the virgins display to great advantage the pretty