On the afternoon of November 28 we sighted land.  It was only a barren rocky knoll, and according to our determination of the position it would be the island called Bligh’s Cap, which lies a few miles north of Kerguelen Island; but as the weather was not very clear, and we were unacquainted with the channels, we preferred to lie-to for the night before approaching any nearer.  Early next morning the weather cleared, and we got accurate bearings.  A course was laid for Royal Sound, where we supposed the whaling-station to be situated.  We were going well in the fresh morning breeze, and were just about to round the last headland, when all at once a gale sprang up again, the bare and uninviting coast was hidden in heavy rain, and we had the choice of waiting for an indefinite time or continuing our voyage.  Without much hesitation we chose the latter alternative.  It might be tempting enough to come in contact with other men, especially as they were fellow-countrymen, but it was even more tempting to have done with the remaining 4,000 miles that lay between us and the Barrier as quickly as possible.  It turned out that we had chosen rightly.  December brought us a fair wind, even fresher than that of November, and by the middle of the month we had already covered half the distance between Kerguelen Island and our goal.  We fortified the dogs from time to time with a liberal allowance of butter, which had a marvellous effect.  There was nothing wrong with ourselves; we were all in the best of health, and our spirits rose as we drew nearer our goal.

That the state of our health was so remarkably good during the whole voyage must be ascribed in a material degree to the excellence of our provisions.  During the trip from home to Madeira we had lived sumptuously on some little pigs that we took with us, but after these luxuries we had to take to tinned meat for good.  The change was not felt much, as we had excellent and palatable things with us.  There was a separate service for the two cabins, but the food was precisely the same in each.  Breakfast was at eight, consisting of American hot cakes, with marmalade or jam, cheese, fresh bread, and coffee or cocoa.  Dinner as a rule was composed of one dish of meat and sweets.  As has already been said, we could not afford to have soup regularly on account of the water it required, and it was only served on Sundays.  The second course usually consisted of Californian fruit.  It was our aim all through to employ fruit, vegetables, and jam, to the greatest possible extent; there is undoubtedly no better means of avoiding sickness.  At dinner we always drank syrup and water; every Wednesday and Saturday we were treated to a glass of spirits.  I knew from my own experience how delicious a cup of coffee tastes when one turns out to go on watch at night.  However sleepy and grumpy one may be, a gulp of hot coffee quickly makes a better man of one; therefore coffee for the night watch was a permanent institution on board the Fram.