the presence of crevasses, but otherwise the surface
looked safe enough. The small guns kept up a
lively crackle all through the night, and combined
with a good deal of uproar among the dogs to shorten
our sleep. But the first night of a sledge journey
is almost always a bad one. Stubberud declared
that he could not close his eyes on account of “that
filthy row.” He probably expected the ice
to open and swallow him up every time he heard it.
The surface, however, held securely, and we turned
out to the finest day one could wish to see. It
did not require any very great strength of mind to
get out of one’s sleeping-bag now. The
stockings that had been hung up in the evening could
be put on again as dry as a bone; the sun had seen
to that. Our ski boots were as soft as ever;
there was not a sign of frost on them. It is quite
curious to see the behaviour of the dogs when the
first head appears through the tent-door in the morning.
They greet their lord and master with the most unmistakable
signs of joy, although, of course, they must know
that his arrival will be followed by many hours of
toil, with, perhaps, a few doses of the whip thrown
in; but from the moment he begins to handle the sledge,
the dogs look as if they had no desire in the world
but to get into the harness as soon as possible and
start away. On days like this their troubles
would be few; with the light load and good going we
had no difficulty in covering nineteen geographical
miles in eight hours. Johansen’s team was
on my heels the whole time, and Stubberud’s
animals followed faithfully behind. From time
to time we saw sledge-tracks quite plainly; we also
kept the mark-flags in sight all day. In the
temperatures we now had to deal with our costume was
comparatively light — certainly much lighter
than most people imagine; for there is a kind of summer
even in Antarctica, although the daily readings of
the thermometer at this season would perhaps rather
remind our friends at home of what they are accustomed
to regard as winter.
In undertaking a sledge journey down there in autumn
or spring, the most extraordinary precautions have
to be taken to protect oneself against the cold.
Skin clothing is then the only thing that is of any
use; but at this time of year, when the sun is above
the horizon for the whole twenty-four hours, one can
go for a long time without being more heavily clad
than a lumberman working in the woods. During
the march our clothing was usually the following:
two sets of woollen underclothes, of which that nearest
the skin was quite thin. Outside the shirt we
wore either an ordinary waistcoat or a comparatively
light knitted woollen jersey. Outside all came
our excellent Burberry clothes — trousers
and jacket. When it was calm, with full sunshine,
the Burberry jacket was too warm; we could then go
all day in our shirt-sleeves. To be provided for
emergencies, we all had our thinnest reindeer-skin
clothes with us; but, so far as I know, these were
never used, except as pillows or mattresses.