Then again, there is that want of uniformity which Mr. James Smith has so ably descanted upon, and to which I have already referred.  It is bad enough to have a wine labelled Riesling, or whatever it may be, from one place differing entirely from a wine of the same name which comes from some other locality.  But it is a far more serious defect when the wine of any particular place one year differs entirely from the same wine coming from the same locality at another.  For the same variety of wine, of the same vineyard, thus to vary, year by year, is simply unpardonable.  This must not be allowed to continue, for while it exists Australian nines will always be subject to reproach—­a reproach, indeed, which cannot be explained away.

And while dealing with these shortcomings I propose to speak of another matter, which is by no means unimportant.  I refer to the size of the bottle.  It has frequently happened that visitors to Australia hare said to me, “I should very much like—­indeed, I am anxious—­to try your Australian wines; but unfortunately I cannot drink a whole bottle at table, and I am unable to obtain less.”  Now, this is undoubtedly a grievance, and should be overcome in some way; either by putting up a portion of our wines in smaller bottles, or else by making some arrangement so that a smaller quantity may be obtained.  Since these lines were written, however, it is very pleasing to record the fact that one enterprising firm in Sydney has taken a highly commendable step in this very direction; and already smaller bottles of Australian wine may be obtained for the low prices of 6d. and 9d.

Up to this point I have made no remarks with regard to the knowledge of wine possessed by the majority of Australians, and yet in many respects it is the most important of all.  They are not called upon to pronounce an opinion upon a wine, such as would be looked for from an expert.  But I do think it is very desirable that they should know, at least, the kind of wine that is suitable for Australian use.  Once this is accomplished, and it is by no means difficult to learn, a great deal will have been achieved.  It is quite a mistake to imagine that the value of a wine increases with its strength, and that the stronger a wine is, the more valuable it becomes.  Even in Europe itself strong wines are going out of fashion, and lighter ones are taking their place.  People much prefer a light wine, of which they can take a fair amount and quench their thirst, in preference to a strong wine of the port or sherry type, of which they can only take a small wineglassful.  But in Australia, the very place where one would expect a demand for all lighter wines, the taste for strong wines as the rule.  This is another striking example of the same antagonism to climatic environment which is found all through our food habits.  A light wine is the wine above all others which should be most sought after.  What Australia requires as a national beverage is a wine of low alcoholic strength.  It should be so cheap as to come within the easy every-day reach of all classes.  And finally, it should take the place of all other liquids, since it is essentially wholesome, hygienic, restorative, and cheering.