The white wines of Burgundy however, must not be forgotten, for amongst them is the renowned Chablis.  This, with the oysters, the squeeze of lemon juice, and the brown bread and butter, usually heralds in any large dinner.  Although slightly alcoholic, it is not heady, and possesses body, delicacy, and an agreeable perfume, with that distinguishing Pierre A fusil taste—­that flinty flavour—­which is its recognised characteristic.

Leaving the Bordeaux wines and the wines of Burgundy, it is next desirable to speak of one which belongs to the South of France.  It is well known, at least by name, to most Australians, and any description of its properties, therefore, will be the more appreciated.  This is the Muscat of Rivesaltes, in the department of the Oriental Pyrenees.  By some it is esteemed the best liqueur wine in the world.  A good sample of it possesses great finesse, a good deal of vinosity, and that wonderful muscadine bouquet which gives to it its celebrated characters.

There is another wine, coming from the valley of the Rhone, in the south-eastern portion of France, whose name is equally familiar to most Australians; this is the Red Hermitage, or, as it is perhaps more commonly known amongst us, Shiraz, wine.  A genuine wine is distinguished by great richness, a lively purple colour, and a special bouquet; and it becomes, by these united qualities, the best wine of this region.

Turning to the German wines, those of the Rheingau must claim our attention.  This district borders on the Rhine, and it is said that the river acts as a mirror, in reflecting the rays of the sun towards the vineyards.  The Rheingau must not be confused with the district of Hochheim, which is situated on the Maine.  Yet it is curious that the first syllable of the latter district (Hochheim) has furnished the monosyllabic English word Hock, under which are confused all the Rhine wines.  Amongst the wines of the Rheingau may be enumerated Steinberg, Marcobrunner, and Johannisberg.  With regard to the wines of the Rheingau, Mr. Henry Vizetelly observes:  “Although the flavour and bouquet of the grand wines of the Rheingau are equally pronounced, it is exceedingly difficult to characterise them with precision.  After gratifying the sense of smell with the fragrant odour which they evolve —­and which is no mere evanescent essence vanishing as soon as recognised, but often a rich odour which almost scents the surrounding atmosphere—­you proceed to taste the vine, and seem to sip the aroma exhaled by it.  Now and then you are conscious of a refilled pungent flavour, and at other times of a slight racy sharpness, while the after-taste generally suggests more of an almond flavour than any other you can call to mind.  No wines vary so much in their finer qualities as the grand growths of the Rheingau.  The produce of a particular vineyard, although from the same species of grape, cultivated under precisely similar conditions,