as possible the temperature of the dining-room itself.  The finest clarets are often utterly spoiled from the fact that this has been disregarded, and they have been brought to table without ally preparation.  In the case of Burgundy, however, an opposite treatment is required, and by many connoisseurs it is considered to be best when brought up from a cool cellar shortly before use.  All these are matters of considerable importance, and show that the judging of wines requires something more than a mere off-hand opinion.  There are certain descriptions of the different varieties of wines, given by Thudicum and Dupre, Vizetelly and others, which are of great assistance in helping to a knowledge of the various desiderata to be looked for.  Moreover, much will be gained by collecting them together, as their principal characteristics will be better remembered when they are thus contrasted with each other.  It is not my wish to laud the wines of other countries to the disparagement of Australian growths, but it is my object to show clearly those desirable properties which all good wines should possess.  A knowledge of these lofty standards will do more to better the quality of our Australian wines than anything I know of.

The wines of the Medoc, that district of the Gironde which produces the finest clarets, namely, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Lafitte, Chateau Latour, &c., possess distinguishing features peculiar to themselves.  They have a certain slight distinctive roughness; are fine, juicy, marrowy in the mouth, and after having been in bottle some years they acquire a very beautiful bouquet.  They have, moreover, this remarkable hygienic quality, that they can be drunk in large quantity without, as the French say, “fatiguing” either head or stomach.  But there is another portion of the Bordeaux country, namely the Graves, which produces both red and white wines.  The latter include those magnificent Sauternes, Chateau d’Yquem and La Tour Blanche, which take such high rank; Chateau d’Yquem, indeed, has been likened to liquid gold—­liquid gold in a crystal glass—­and is one of those most luscious and delicately aromatic of wines, with an exquisite bouquet and rich, delicious flavour.

As it has already been stated, Bordeaux and Burgundy are entirely different wines, and this fact must be well remembered.  The wines of the latter comprise some of the most famous growths of France, and are distinguished by the suavity of their taste, their finesse, and spirituous aroma The red wines have a fine colour, a good deal of bouquet, and a delicious taste.  They give tone to the stomach, and facilitate digestion.  Of these red wines of Burgundy the Romanee-Conti is among the first growths, and it is renowned for its fine colour, its aroma, its delicacy, and the superb quality of its delicious taste.  Clos de Vougeot is another great growth, which is slightly more alcoholic than the preceding.  Chambertin, also, possesses a good deal of seve, delicacy, perfect taste, and pleasant bouquet; moreover, it has a softness which made it an especial favourite with the great Napoleon.  Corton, likewise, is of high colour, corse, and, as it gets older, acquires a great deal of seve and bouquet.