rendered, and is daily rendering, true and important services to our vinicole department (that of the Gironde); for, by this means, intelligent classifications have given to our grands crus a universal reputation, and have made our best wines known and appreciated throughout the civilised world.  In the judging of wines, therefore, at least four essentials are necessary:  two of the senses—­the taste and the smell must be perfect—­while great experience and special knowledge must be equally present.”

Now, there is an old saying, de GUSTIBUS non EST DISPUTANDUM, and consequently every person has a perfect right to like what pleases him; so that in this way anyone may prefer to drink whisky, or any other form of spirits, and he is quite entitled to believe there is nothing so good for him; but, on the other hand, an habitual spirit-drinker must not claim to possess a correct judgment in estimating the qualities of a good wine; for, as a matter of fact, the daily influence of whisky on the palate is absolutely fatal to its delicacy of perception.  There are none of the graceful flavours, none of the delicate ethers, none of the perfumed bouquets in whisky that belong to a wholesome wine.  No, there is only the coarse spirit which benumbs the palatal nerves, and renders them incapable of picking out these vinous attributes.  Moreover, it would almost seem that a person’s very thoughts are controlled by his customary beverage.  It is evident, indeed, that Richard Bentley, one of the greatest scholars of modern times, believed in this doctrine; for did he not make this memorable remark to one of his pupils:  “Sir, if you drink ale, you will think ale”?

Is it not true, also, that with many people champagne is regarded as the highest type of wine?  This is more likely to be the case with those who are beginning to realize the pleasures of life.  Indeed, as it has been acutely remarked, a youngster from college, when invited to dinner, thinks himself badly treated if he does not get it.  Now, it is not to be denied that champagne is, in its way, an imperial drink, and that it has a specially exhilarating effect.  But, at the same time, it must be remembered that it is on the other side of the champagne stage of life that the appreciation of really great wines begins.

Take, for instance, a comparison of the wines of Bordeaux and of Burgundy.  These are two distinct classes of wine, and, according to Mr. Sept.  Berdmore, should be imbibed different days.  That they are entirely distinct wines might only be expected, seeing that the geographical positions of the two districts are so far apart.  The Bordeaux wines come from the south-western or Bay of Biscay side of France, while those of Burgundy belong to her eastern portion.  It is almost universally a matter of belief that the red wines of Bordeaux should be warmed gradually—­taking some hours—­before they are drunk.  The temperature of these wines should be as nearly