too, it is quite evident that the instructions have
never been actually followed by the compilers of these
works themselves, or they would signally fail if they
attempted to follow their own advice. Furthermore,
even those who pride themselves on the knowledge of
the preparation of food for the table are often surprisingly
misinformed on the subject of salad-making. It
will be as well at this stage, consequently, to refer
to the plan usually followed by English people, so
as the better to contrast the two methods—the
faulty or English with the correct or French.
Well then, English people almost invariably cut their
lettuce first into halves, and next into quarters.
These latter are then placed in water to soak for
some time, and are afterwards laid on a plate to drain.
In this way the leaves are supposed to be thoroughly
cleansed, but as a matter of fact deep down between
the leaves are the minute insects, which are left
undisturbed. The next proceeding is to cut the
leaves into very fine shreds, to add a few slices of
hard-boiled egg, and finally to pour over the whole
a mysterious mixture known as salad-dressing.
Thus is produced the orthodox English salad, which
everyone, probably from patriotic motives, pronounces
to be extremely nice. In the French preparation
of a salad, however, each single leaf is detached
and carefully cleansed, some needing simply wiping,
while others require absolute washing. Every
leaf, be it borne in mind, before going into the salad
bowl must be perfectly dry, or else the first great
principle of salad making will be infringed, for oil
and water refuse to mingle. In preparing a French
salad, too, the stalks or coarse ribs are removed
from the middle part of each leaf, and the larger
leaves also are carefully divided into halves.
The whole leaf is not chopped up into shreds, as in
the English salad. After this the drying of the
leaves is best accomplished by placing them within
a clean towel. Instead of the towel a wire basket,
panier a salade, is more convenient and is generally
used in France; it should be easily obtainable for
a shilling or two. In using the towel the four
corners are held together in the right hand, and the
whole is repeatedly brought sharply round with a swing
of the arm, stopping with a sudden jerk, till all
the water is driven off 011 the floor. Herein
consists the excellence of the French method, for
the leaves are thoroughly cleansed, the acrid parts
are removed, and the leaves are perfectly dry.
On a small plate, near by, are usually three or four
heaps of finely-chopped herbs (Fines HERBES),
namely, burnet, chervil, chives, tarragon, mustard
and cress, or even parsley; these constitute what is
known as “the fourniture” of the salad.
The lettuce leaves, on being taken out of the towel,
are then placed within the bowl, and over them is
daintily spread whatever is required from each of the
little heaps of herbs already referred to. A
little salt is next to be quietly tapped over the