is to hire some fellow of this village to conduct us through the hills to Viveiro.  There are no beds in this place, and if we lie down in the litter in our damp clothes we shall catch a tertian of Galicia.  Our present guide is of no service, we must therefore find another to do his duty.”  Without waiting for a reply, he flung down the crust of broa which he was munching and disappeared.  I subsequently learned that he went to the cottage of the alcalde, and demanded, in the Queen’s name, a guide for the Greek ambassador, who was benighted on his way to the Asturias.  In about ten minutes I again saw him, attended by the local functionary, who, to my surprise, made me a profound bow, and stood bare-headed in the rain.  “His excellency,” shouted Antonio, “is in need of a guide to Viveiro.  People of our description are not compelled to pay for any service which they may require; however, as his excellency has bowels of compassion, he is willing to give three pesetas to any competent person who will accompany him to Viveiro, and as much bread and wine as he can eat and drink on his arrival.”  “His excellency shall be served,” said the alcalde; “however, as the way is long and the path is bad, and there is much bretima amongst the hills, it appears to me that, besides the bread and wine, his excellency can do no less than offer four pesetas to the guide who may be willing to accompany him to Viveiro; and I know no one better than my own son-in-law, Juanito.”  “Content, senor alcalde,” I replied; “produce the guide, and the extra peseta shall be forthcoming in due season.”

Soon appeared Juanito with a lantern in his hand.  We instantly set forward.  The two guides began conversing in Gallegan.  “Mon maitre,” said Antonio, “this new scoundrel is asking the old one what he thinks we have got in our portmanteaus.”  Then, without awaiting my answer, he shouted, “Pistols, ye barbarians!  Pistols, as ye shall learn to your cost, if you do not cease speaking in that gibberish and converse in Castilian.”  The Gallegans were silent, and presently the first guide dropped behind, whilst the other with the lantern moved before.  “Keep in the rear,” said Antonio to the former, “and at a distance:  know one thing moreover, that I can see behind as well as before.  Mon maitre,” said he to me, “I don’t suppose these fellows will attempt to do us any harm, more especially as they do not know each other; it is well, however, to separate them, for this is a time and place which might tempt any one to commit robbery and murder too.”

The rain still continued to fall uninterruptedly, the path was rugged and precipitous, and the night was so dark that we could only see indistinctly the hills which surrounded us.  Once or twice our guide seemed to have lost his way:  he stopped, muttered to himself, raised his lantern on high, and would then walk slowly and hesitatingly forward.  In this manner we proceeded for three or four hours,