“Senor!” said the Gypsy, coming up with the most serious countenance in the world, “I told you not to mount that animal unless well bridled and bitted.  He is a baggage pony, and will suffer none to mount his back, with the exception of myself who feed him.” (Here he whistled, and the animal, who was scurring over the field, and occasionally kicking up his heels, instantly returned with a gentle neigh.) “Now, your worship, see how gentle he is.  He is a capital baggage pony, and will carry all you have over the hills of Galicia.”

“What do you ask for him?” said I.

“Senor, as your worship is an Englishman, and a good ginete, and, moreover, understands the ways of the Calore, and their tricks and their language also, I will sell him to you a bargain.  I will take two hundred and sixty dollars for him and no less.”

“That is a large sum,” said I.

“No, Senor, not at all, considering that he is a baggage pony, and belongs to the troop, and is not mine to sell.”

Two hours’ ride brought us to Palencia, a fine old town, beautifully situated on the Carrion, and famous for its trade in wool.  We put up at the best posada which the place afforded, and I forthwith proceeded to visit one of the principal merchants of the town, to whom I was recommended by my banker in Madrid.  I was told, however, that he was taking his siesta.  “Then I had better take my own,” said I, and returned to the posada.  In the evening I went again, when I saw him.  He was a short bulky man about thirty, and received me at first with some degree of bluntness; his manner, however, presently became more kind, and at last he scarcely appeared to know how to show me sufficient civility.  His brother had just arrived from Santander, and to him he introduced me.  This last was a highly-intelligent person, and had passed many years of his life in England.  They both insisted upon showing me the town, and, indeed, led me all over it, and about the neighbourhood.  I particularly admired the cathedral, a light, elegant, but ancient Gothic edifice.  Whilst we walked about the aisles, the evening sun, pouring its mellow rays through the arched windows, illumined some beautiful paintings of Murillo, with which the sacred edifice is adorned.  From the church my friends conducted me to a fulling mill in the neighbourhood, by a picturesque walk.  There was no lack either of trees or water, and I remarked, that the environs of Palencia were amongst the most pleasant places that I had ever seen.

Tired at last with rambling, we repaired to a coffee-house, where they regaled me with chocolate and sweet-meats.  Such was their hospitality; and of hospitality of this simple and agreeable kind there is much in Spain.