Passing the Pyrenees, I quitted with France, rain and bad weather, and found a clear sky, a charming temperature, with views and perspectives which changed at each moment, and which were not less charming.  We were all mounted upon mules, the pace of which is good but easy.  I turned a little out of my way to visit Loyola, famous by the birth of Saint Ignatius, and situated all alone in a narrow valley.  We found there four or five Jesuits, very polite and instructed, who took care of the prodigious building erected there for more than a hundred Jesuits and numberless scholars.  A church was there nearly finished, of rotunda shape, of a grandeur and size which surprised me.  Gold, painting, sculpture, the richest ornaments of all kinds, are distributed everywhere with prodigality but taste.  The architecture is correct and admirable, the marble is most exquisite; jasper, porphyry, lapis, polished, wreathed, and fluted columns, with their capitals and their ornaments of gilded bronze, a row of balconies between each altar with little steps of marble to ascend them, and the cage encrusted; the altars and that which accompanied them admirable.  In a word, the church was one of the most superb edifices in Europe, the best kept up, and the most magnificently adorned.  We took there the best chocolate I ever tasted, and, after some hours of curiosity and admiration, we regained our road.

On the 15th, we arrived at Vittoria, where I found a deputation of the province, whom I invited to supper, and the next day to breakfast.  They spoke French and I was surprised to see Spaniards so gay and such good company at table.  Joy on account of my journey burst out in every place through which I passed in France and Spain, and obtained for me a good reception.  At Salinas, among other towns which I passed through without stopping, ladies, who, to judge by their houses and by themselves, appeared to me to be quality folks, asked me with such good grace to let them see the man who was bringing happiness to Spain, that I thought it would only be proper gallantry to enter their dwellings.  They appeared ravished, and I had all the trouble in the world to get rid of them, and to continue my road.

I arrived on the 18th at Burgos, where I meant to stay at least one day, to see what turn would take a rather strong fever which had seized my eldest son; but I was so pressed to hasten on that I was obliged to leave my son behind with nearly all his attendants.

I left Burgos therefore on the 19th.  We found but few relays, and those ill-established.  We travelled night and day without going to bed, until we reached Madrid, using such vehicles as we could obtain.  I performed the last twelve leagues on a posthorse, which cost twice as much as in France.  In this manner we arrived in Madrid on Friday, the 21st, at eleven o’clock at night.

We found at the entrance of the town (which has neither gates nor walls, neither barriers nor faubourgs,) people on guard, who asked us who we were, and whence we came.  They had been placed there expressly so as to know the moment of my arrival.  As I was much fatigued by travelling incessantly from Burgos without stopping, I replied that we were the people of the Ambassador of France, who would arrive the next day.