care into intricate patterns of fruit and foliage, and you will get some idea of a Brunswick street.  The town contained four or five splendid old churches, and their mediaeval builders had taken advantage of the dead-flat, featureless plain in which Brunswick stands, to erect such lofty towers as only the architects in the Low Countries ever devised; towers which served as landmarks for miles around, their soaring height silhouetted against the pale northern sky.  The irregular streets and open places contained one or two gems of Renaissance architecture, such as the stone-built Town Hall and “Guild House,” both very similar in character to buildings of the same date in sleepy old Flemish towns.  The many gushing fountains of mediaeval bronze and iron-work in the streets added to the extraordinary picturesqueness of the place.  It was like a scene from an opera in real life.  It always puzzled me to think how the water for these fountains can have been provided on that dead-flat plain in pre-steam days.  There must have been pumps of some sort.  Before 1914, tens of thousands of tourists visited Nuremberg annually, but the guide-books are almost silent about Brunswick, which is fully as picturesque.

The standard of material comfort appeared far higher in Brunswick than in a French provincial town.  The manner in which the Spiegelbergs’ house was fitted up seemed very elaborate after the simple appointments of the Ducros’ farm-house, though nothing in the world would have induced me to own one single object that this Teutonic residence contained.  The Spiegelbergs treated me extremely kindly, and I was fortunate in being quartered on such agreeable people.

At Nyons there was not one single bookseller, but Brunswick bristled with book-shops, and, in addition, there were two of those most excellent lending libraries to be found in every German town.  Here almost every book ever published in German or English was to be found, as well as a few very cautiously selected French ones, for German parents were careful then as to what their daughters read.

The great resource of Brunswick was the theatre, such a theatre as does not exist in any French provincial town, and such a theatre as has never even been dreamed of in any British town.  It was fully as large as Drury Lane, and was subsidised by the State.  I really believe that every opera ever written was given here, and given quite admirably.  In this town of 60,000 inhabitants, in addition to the opera company, there was a fine dramatic company, as well as a light opera company, and a corps de ballet.  Sunday, Tuesday and Saturday were devoted to grand opera, Monday to classical drama (Schiller or Shakespeare), Wednesday to modern comedy, Friday to light opera or farce.  The bill was constantly changing, and every new piece produced in Berlin or Vienna was duly presented to the Brunswick public.  There are certainly some things we can learn from Germany!  The mounting