of a place of eternal punishment, shut up his notebook
in disgust, and walked off: there was evidently
no “story” to be made out of us. After
some luncheon and a bottle of Burgundy, neither Baring
nor I felt any the worse for our swim, nor were we
the least tired during the remainder of the day.
I have seen Niagara in summer, spring and in mid-winter,
and each time the fascination of these vast masses
of tumbling waters has grown on me. I have never,
to my regret, seen the Victoria Falls of the Zambesi,
as on two separate occasions when starting for them
unforeseen circumstances detained me in Cape Town.
The Victoria Falls are more than double the height
of Niagara, Niagara falling 160 feet, and the Zambesi
330 feet, and the Falls are over one mile broad, but
I fancy that except in March and April, the volume
of water hurling itself over them into the great chasm
below is smaller than at Niagara. I have heard
that the width of the Victoria Falls is to within
a few yards exactly the distance between the Marble
Arch and Oxford Circus. When I was in the Argentine
Republic, the great Falls of the River Iguazu, a tributary
of the Parana, were absolutely inaccessible. To
reach them vast tracts of dense primeval forest had
to be traversed, where every inch of the track would
have to be laboriously hacked through the jungle.
Their very existence was questioned, for it depended
on the testimony of wandering Indians, and of one
solitary white man, a Jesuit missionary. Now,
since the railway to Paraguay has been completed,
the Iguazu Falls can be reached, though the journey
is still a difficult one. The Falls are 200 feet
high, and nearly a mile wide. In the very heart
of the City of Ottawa there are the fine Chaudiere
Falls, where the entire River Ottawa drops fifty feet
over a rocky ledge. The boiling whirl of angry
waters has well earned its name of cauldron, or “Chaudiere,”
but so much of the water has now been drawn off to
supply electricity and power to the city, that the
volume of the falls has become sensibly diminished.
I know of no place in Europe where the irresistible
might of falling waters is more fully brought home
to one than at Trollhattan in Sweden. Here the
Gotha River whirls itself down 120 feet in seven cataracts.
They are rapids rather than falls, but it is the immense
volume of water which makes them so impressive.
Every year Trolhattan grows more and more disfigured
by saw-mills, carbide of calcium works, and other
industrial buildings sprouting up like unsightly mushrooms
along the river-banks. The last time that I was
there it was almost impossible to see the falls in
their entirety from any point, owing to this congestion
of squalid factories.