On the 28th of February we obtained the first glimpse of the green and fertile plains of Syria, which, in many respects, reminded us of the climate and soil of Europe.  We now had rain, and sometimes rather too much.  The feelings which the sight of the valleys and mountains called. forth made us, in some degree, forget the hardships and vexations of an expedition of which few persons could foresee the object or end.  There are situations in life when the slightest agreeable sensation alleviates all our ills.

On the 1st of March we slept at Ramleh, in a small convent occupied by two monks, who paid us the greatest attention.  They gave us the church for a hospital.  These good fathers did not fail to tell us that it was through this place the family of Jesus Christ passed into Egypt, and showed us the wells at which they quenched their thirst.

     —­[Ramleh, the ancient Arimathea, is situated at the base of a chain
     of mountains, the eastern extremity of which is washed by the
     Persian Gulf, and the western by the Mediterranean.—­Bourrienne.]—­

The pure and cool water of these wells delighted us.

We were not more than about six leagues from Jerusalem.

I asked the General whether he did not intend to direct his march by the way of that city, so celebrated in many respects.  He replied, “Oh no!  Jerusalem is not in my line of operations.  I do not wish to be annoyed by mountaineers in difficult roads.  And, besides, on the other aide of the mountain I should be assailed by swarms of cavalry.  I am not ambitious of the fate of Cassius.”

We therefore did not enter Jerusalem, which was not disturbed by the war.  All we did was to send a written declaration to the persons in power at Jerusalem, assuring them that we had no design against that country, and only wished them to remain at peace.  To this communication no answer was returned, and nothing more passed on the subject.

—­[Sir Walter Scott says, speaking of Bonaparte, that he believes that little officer of artillery dreamed of being King of Jerusalem.  What I have just stated proves that he never thought of such a thing.  The “little officer of artillery” had a far more splendid dream in his head.—­Bourrienne.]—­

We found at Ramleh between two and three hundred Christians in a pitiable state of servitude, misery, and dejection.  On conversing with them I could not help admiring how much the hope of future rewards may console men under present ills.  But I learned from many of them that they did not live in harmony together.  The feelings of hatred and jealousy are not less common amongst these people than amongst the better-instructed inhabitants of rich and populous cities.

CHAPTER XVIII

1799.