Trains were slow in 1853, and it required several days and nights to go from St. Louis to New York City, but to Sam Clemens it was a wonderful journey.  All day he sat looking out of the window, eating when he chose from the food he carried, curling up in his seat at night to sleep.  He arrived at last with a few dollars in his pocket and a ten-dollar bill sewed into the lining of his coat.

New York was rather larger than he expected.  All of the lower end of Manhattan Island was covered by it.  The Crystal Palace—­some distance out—­stood at Forty-second Street and Sixth Avenue—­the present site of Bryant Park.  All the world’s newest wonders were to be seen there—­a dazzling exhibition.  A fragment of the letter which Sam Clemens wrote to his sister Pamela—­the earliest piece of Mark Twain’s writing that has been preserved—­expresses his appreciation of the big fair: 

“From the gallery (second floor) you have a glorious sight—­the flags of the different countries represented, the lofty dome, glittering jewelry, gaudy tapestry, etc., with the busy crowd passing to and fro—­’tis a perfect fairy palace—­beautiful beyond description.

“The machinery department is on the main floor, but I cannot enumerate any of it on account of the lateness of the hour (past one o’clock).  It would take more than a week to examine everything on exhibition, and I was only in a little over two hours to-night.  I only glanced at about one-third of the articles; and, having a poor memory, I have enumerated scarcely any of even the principal objects.  The visitors to the Palace average 6,000 daily—­double the population of Hannibal.  The price of admission being fifty cents, they take in about $3,000.

“The Latting Observatory (height about 280 feet) is near the Palace.  From it you can obtain a grand view of the city and the country around.  The Croton Aqueduct, to supply the city with water, is the greatest wonder yet.  Immense pipes are laid across the bed of the Harlem River, and pass through the country to Westchester County, where a whole river is turned from its course and brought to New York.  From the reservoir in the city to Westchester County reservoir the distance is thirty-eight miles, and, if necessary, they could easily supply every family in New York with one hundred barrels of water a day!

“I am very sorry to learn that Henry has been sick.  He ought to go to the country and take exercise, for he is not half so healthy as Ma thinks he is.  If he had my walking to do, he would be another boy entirely.  Four times every day I walk a little over a mile; and working hard all day and walking four miles is exercise.  I am used to it now, though, and it is no trouble.  Where is it Orion’s going to?  Tell Ma my promises are faithfully kept; and if I have my health I will take her to Ky. in the spring.  I shall save money for this.