Ibsen and Sudermann that I was almost sorry to have
the son take our modern side of the controversy and
declare himself an admirer of those authors with us.
Our frank literary difference established a kindness
between us that was strengthened by our community
of English, and when they went they left us to the
sympathy of another German family with whom we had
mainly our humanity in common. They spoke no
English, and I only a German which they must have
understood with their hearts rather than their heads,
since it consisted chiefly of good-will. But in
the air of their sweet natures it flourished surprisingly,
and sufficed each day for praise of the weather after
it began to be fine, and at parting for some fond
regrets, not unmixed with philosophical reflections,
sadly perplexed in the genders and the order of the
verbs: with me the verb will seldom wait, as
it should in German, to the end. Both of these
families, very different in social tradition, I fancied,
were one in the amiability which makes the alien forgive
so much militarism to the German nation, and hope
for its final escape from the drill-sergeant.
When they went, we were left for some meals to our
own American tongue, with a brief interval of that
English painter and his wife with whom we spoke, our
language as nearly like English as we could. Then
followed a desperate lunch and dinner where an unbroken
forest of German, and a still more impenetrable morass
of Dutch, hemmed us in. But last night it was
our joy to be addressed in our own speech by a lady
who spoke it as admirably as our dear friends from
F-----. She was Dutch, and when she found we
were Americans she praised our historian Motley, and
told us how his portrait is gratefully honored with
a place in the Queen’s palace, The House in
the Woods, near Scheveningen.
V.
She had come up from her place in the country, four
hours away, for the last of the concerts here, which
have been given throughout the summer by the best
orchestra in Europe, and which have been thronged every
afternoon and evening by people from The Hague.
One honored day this week even the Queen and the Queen
Mother came down to the concert, and gave us incomparably
the greatest event of our waning season. I had
noticed all the morning a floral perturbation about
the main entrance of the hotel, which settled into
the form of banks of autumnal bloom on either side
of the specially carpeted stairs, and put forth on
the roof of the arcade in a crown, much bigger round
than a barrel, of orange-colored asters, in honor
of the Queen’s ancestral house of Orange.
Flags of blue, white, and red fluttered nervously about
in the breeze from the sea, and imparted to us an
agreeable anxiety not to miss seeing the Queens, as
the Dutch succinctly call their sovereign and her
parent; and at three o’clock we saw them drive
up to the hotel. Certain officials in civil dress
stood at the door of the concert-room to usher the