“I never dine without wine, sir” (which was a pitiful falsehood), and looked around upon the company to bask in the admiration he expected to find in their faces.  All these airs in a land where they would as soon expect to leave the soup out of the bill of fare as the wine!—­in a land where wine is nearly as common among all ranks as water!  This fellow said:  “I am a free-born sovereign, sir, an American, sir, and I want everybody to know it!” He did not mention that he was a lineal descendant of Balaam’s ass, but everybody knew that without his telling it.

We have driven in the Prado—­that superb avenue bordered with patrician mansions and noble shade trees—­and have visited the chateau Boarely and its curious museum.  They showed us a miniature cemetery there—­a copy of the first graveyard that was ever in Marseilles, no doubt.  The delicate little skeletons were lying in broken vaults and had their household gods and kitchen utensils with them.  The original of this cemetery was dug up in the principal street of the city a few years ago.  It had remained there, only twelve feet underground, for a matter of twenty-five hundred years or thereabouts.  Romulus was here before he built Rome, and thought something of founding a city on this spot, but gave up the idea.  He may have been personally acquainted with some of these Phoenicians whose skeletons we have been examining.

In the great Zoological Gardens we found specimens of all the animals the world produces, I think, including a dromedary, a monkey ornamented with tufts of brilliant blue and carmine hair—­a very gorgeous monkey he was —­a hippopotamus from the Nile, and a sort of tall, long-legged bird with a beak like a powder horn and close-fitting wings like the tails of a dress coat.  This fellow stood up with his eyes shut and his shoulders stooped forward a little, and looked as if he had his hands under his coat tails.  Such tranquil stupidity, such supernatural gravity, such self-righteousness, and such ineffable self-complacency as were in the countenance and attitude of that gray-bodied, dark-winged, bald-headed, and preposterously uncomely bird!  He was so ungainly, so pimply about the head, so scaly about the legs, yet so serene, so unspeakably satisfied!  He was the most comical-looking creature that can be imagined.  It was good to hear Dan and the doctor laugh—­such natural and such enjoyable laughter had not been heard among our excursionists since our ship sailed away from America.  This bird was a godsend to us, and I should be an ingrate if I forgot to make honorable mention of him in these pages.  Ours was a pleasure excursion; therefore we stayed with that bird an hour and made the most of him.  We stirred him up occasionally, but he only unclosed an eye and slowly closed it again, abating no jot of his stately piety of demeanor or his tremendous seriousness.  He only seemed to say, “Defile not Heaven’s anointed with unsanctified hands.”  We did not know his name, and so we called him “The Pilgrim.”  Dan said: