But it was a failure.  The Arabs are too high-priced in Egypt.  They put on airs unbecoming to such savages.

We descended, hot and out of humor.  The dragoman lit candles, and we all entered a hole near the base of the pyramid, attended by a crazy rabble of Arabs who thrust their services upon us uninvited.  They dragged us up a long inclined chute, and dripped candle-grease all over us.  This chute was not more than twice as wide and high as a Saratoga trunk, and was walled, roofed and floored with solid blocks of Egyptian granite as wide as a wardrobe, twice as thick and three times as long.  We kept on climbing, through the oppressive gloom, till I thought we ought to be nearing the top of the pyramid again, and then came to the “Queen’s Chamber,” and shortly to the Chamber of the King.  These large apartments were tombs.  The walls were built of monstrous masses of smoothed granite, neatly joined together.  Some of them were nearly as large square as an ordinary parlor.  A great stone sarcophagus like a bath-tub stood in the centre of the King’s Chamber.  Around it were gathered a picturesque group of Arab savages and soiled and tattered pilgrims, who held their candles aloft in the gloom while they chattered, and the winking blurs of light shed a dim glory down upon one of the irrepressible memento-seekers who was pecking at the venerable sarcophagus with his sacrilegious hammer.

We struggled out to the open air and the bright sunshine, and for the space of thirty minutes received ragged Arabs by couples, dozens and platoons, and paid them bucksheesh for services they swore and proved by each other that they had rendered, but which we had not been aware of before—­and as each party was paid, they dropped into the rear of the procession and in due time arrived again with a newly-invented delinquent list for liquidation.

We lunched in the shade of the pyramid, and in the midst of this encroaching and unwelcome company, and then Dan and Jack and I started away for a walk.  A howling swarm of beggars followed us—­surrounded us —­almost headed us off.  A sheik, in flowing white bournous and gaudy head-gear, was with them.  He wanted more bucksheesh.  But we had adopted a new code—­it was millions for defense, but not a cent for bucksheesh.  I asked him if he could persuade the others to depart if we paid him.  He said yes—­for ten francs.  We accepted the contract, and said—­

“Now persuade your vassals to fall back.”

He swung his long staff round his head and three Arabs bit the dust.  He capered among the mob like a very maniac.  His blows fell like hail, and wherever one fell a subject went down.  We had to hurry to the rescue and tell him it was only necessary to damage them a little, he need not kill them.—­In two minutes we were alone with the sheik, and remained so.  The persuasive powers of this illiterate savage were remarkable.