I can not describe the hideous afternoon’s ride from the Dead Sea to Mars Saba.  It oppresses me yet, to think of it.  The sun so pelted us that the tears ran down our cheeks once or twice.  The ghastly, treeless, grassless, breathless canons smothered us as if we had been in an oven.  The sun had positive weight to it, I think.  Not a man could sit erect under it.  All drooped low in the saddles.  John preached in this “Wilderness!” It must have been exhausting work.  What a very heaven the messy towers and ramparts of vast Mars Saba looked to us when we caught a first glimpse of them!

We staid at this great convent all night, guests of the hospitable priests.  Mars Saba, perched upon a crag, a human nest stock high up against a perpendicular mountain wall, is a world of grand masonry that rises, terrace upon terrace away above your head, like the terraced and retreating colonnades one sees in fanciful pictures of Belshazzar’s Feast and the palaces of the ancient Pharaohs.  No other human dwelling is near.  It was founded many ages ago by a holy recluse who lived at first in a cave in the rock—­a cave which is inclosed in the convent walls, now, and was reverently shown to us by the priests.  This recluse, by his rigorous torturing of his flesh, his diet of bread and water, his utter withdrawal from all society and from the vanities of the world, and his constant prayer and saintly contemplation of a skull, inspired an emulation that brought about him many disciples.  The precipice on the opposite side of the canyon is well perforated with the small holes they dug in the rock to live in.  The present occupants of Mars Saba, about seventy in number, are all hermits.  They wear a coarse robe, an ugly, brimless stove-pipe of a hat, and go without shoes.  They eat nothing whatever but bread and salt; they drink nothing but water.  As long as they live they can never go outside the walls, or look upon a woman—­for no woman is permitted to enter Mars Saba, upon any pretext whatsoever.

Some of those men have been shut up there for thirty years.  In all that dreary time they have not heard the laughter of a child or the blessed voice of a woman; they have seen no human tears, no human smiles; they have known no human joys, no wholesome human sorrows.  In their hearts are no memories of the past, in their brains no dreams of the future.  All that is lovable, beautiful, worthy, they have put far away from them; against all things that are pleasant to look upon, and all sounds that are music to the ear, they have barred their massive doors and reared their relentless walls of stone forever.  They have banished the tender grace of life and left only the sapped and skinny mockery.  Their lips are lips that never kiss and never sing; their hearts are hearts that never hate and never love; their breasts are breasts that never swell with the sentiment, “I have a country and a flag.”  They are dead men who walk.