Chapter XXII. 
Night in Venice—­The “Gay Gondolier”—­The Grand Fete by Moonlight
—­The Notable Sights of Venice—­The Mother of the Republics Desolate

Chanter XXIII.  The Famous Gondola—­The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect—­The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion—­Snobs, at Home and Abroad—­Sepulchres of the Great Dead—­A Tilt at the “Old Masters”—­A Contraband Guide —­The Conspiracy—­Moving Again

Chapter XXIV.  Down Through Italy by Rail—­Idling in Florence—­Dante and Galileo—­An Ungrateful City—­Dazzling Generosity—­Wonderful Mosaics—­The Historical Arno—­Lost Again—­Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready—­The Leaning Tower of Pisa—­The Ancient Duomo—­The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung—­An Enchanting Echo—­A New Holy Sepulchre—­A Relic of Antiquity—­A Fallen Republic—­At Leghorn—­At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship—­Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion—­Garibaldi Visited—­Threats of Quarantine

Chapter XXV. 
The Works of Bankruptcy—­Railway Grandeur—­How to Fill an Empty
Treasury—­The Sumptuousness of Mother Church—­Ecclesiastical Splendor
—­Magnificence and Misery—­General Execration—­More Magnificence
A Good Word for the Priests—­Civita Vecchia the Dismal—­Off for Rome

Chapter XXVI. 
The Modern Roman on His Travels—­The Grandeur of St. Peter’s—­Holy Relics
—­Grand View from the Dome—­The Holy Inquisition—­Interesting Old Monkish
Frauds—­The Ruined Coliseum—­The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime
—­Ancient Playbill of a Coliseum Performance—­A Roman Newspaper Criticism
1700 Years Old

Chapter XXVII. 
“Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday”—­The Man who Never Complained
—­An Exasperating Subject—­Asinine Guides—­The Roman Catacombs
The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs—­The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart
—­The Legend of Ara Coeli

Chapter XXVIII.  Picturesque Horrors—­The Legend of Brother Thomas—­Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed—­A Festive Company of the Dead—­The Great Vatican Museum Artist Sins of Omission—­The Rape of the Sabines—­Papal Protection of Art—­High Price of “Old Masters”—­Improved Scripture—­Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome—­Scale of Honors Accorded Them —­Fossilizing—­Away for Naples

Chapter XXIX. 
Naples—­In Quarantine at Last—­Annunciation—­Ascent of Mount Vesuvius—­A
Two Cent Community—­The Black Side of Neapolitan Character—­Monkish
Miracles—­Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—­The Stranger and the
Hackman—­Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side—–­Ascent of Mount
Vesuvius Continued

Chapter XXX.  Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—­Beautiful View at Dawn—­Less Beautiful in the Back Streets—­Ascent of Vesuvius Continued—­Dwellings a Hundred Feet High—­A Motley Procession—­Bill of Fare for a Peddler’s Breakfast—­Princely Salaries—­Ascent of Vesuvius Continued—­An Average of Prices—­The wonderful “Blue Grotto”—­Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples—­The Poisoned “Grotto of the Dog”—­A Petrified Sea of Lava—­Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—­The Summit Reached—­Description of the Crater—­Descent of Vesuvius