CHAPTXR xii. 

A Holiday Flight through France—­Summer Garb of the Landscape—­Abroad on the Great Plains—­Peculiarities of French Cars—­French Politeness American Railway Officials—­“Twenty Mnutes to Dinner!”—­Why there are no Accidents—­The “Old Travellers”—­Still on the Wing—­Paris at Last——­French Order and Quiet—­Place of the Bastile—­Seeing the Sights —­A Barbarous Atrocity—­Absurd Billiards

Chapter XIII. 
More Trouble—­Monsieur Billfinger—­Re-Christening the Frenchman—­In the
Clutches of a Paris Guide—­The International Exposition—­Fine Military
Review—­Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey

Chapter XIV. 
The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame—­Jean Sanspeur’s Addition
—­Treasures and Sacred Relics—­The Legend of the Cross—­The Morgue—­The
Outrageious ’Can-Can’—­Blondin Aflame—­The Louvre Palace—­The Great Park
—­Showy Pageantry—­Preservation of Noted Things

Chapter xv. 
French National Burying—­Ground—­Among the Great Dead—­The Shrine of
Disappointed Love—­The Story of Abelard and Heloise—­“English Spoken
Here”—­“American Drinks Compounded Here”—­Imperial Honors to an
American—­The Over-estimated Grisette—­Departure from Paris—­A Deliberate
Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women

Chapter XVI. 
Versailles—­Paradise Regained—­A Wonderful Park—­Paradise Lost
—­Napoleonic Strategy

Chapter xvii. 
War—­The American Forces Victorious—­” Home Again”—­Italy in Sight
The “City of Palaces”—­Beauty of the Genoese Women—­The “Stub-Hunters”
—­Among the Palaces—­Gifted Guide—­Church Magnificence—­“Women not
Admitted”—­How the Genoese Live—­Massive Architecture—­A Scrap of Ancient
History—­Graves for 60,000

Chapter XVIII. 
Flying Through Italy—­Marengo—­First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral
—­Description of some of its Wonders—­A Horror Carved in Stone——­An
Unpleasant Adventure—­A Good Man—­A Sermon from the Tomb—­Tons of Gold
and Silver—­Some More Holy Relics—­Solomon’s Temple

Chapter XIX
“Do You Wiz zo Haut can be?”—­La Scala—­Petrarch and Laura—­Lucrezia
Borgia—­Ingenious Frescoes—­Ancient Roman Amphitheatre—­A Clever
Delusion—­Distressing Billiards—­The Chief Charm of European Life—­An
Italian Bath—­Wanted:  Soap—­Crippled French—­Mutilated English—­The Most
Celebrated Painting in the World—­Amateur Raptures—­Uninspired Critics
—­Anecdote—­A Wonderful Echo—­A Kiss for a Franc

Chapter XX
Rural Italy by Rail—­Fumigated, According to Law—­The Sorrowing
Englishman—­Night by the Lake of Como—­The Famous Lake—­Its Scenery
—­Como compared with Tahoe—­Meeting a Shipmate

Chapter XXI. 
The Pretty Lago di Lecco—­A Carriage Drive in the Country—­Astonishing
Sociability in a Coachman—­Sleepy Land—­Bloody Shrines—­The Heart and
Home of Priestcraft—­A Thrilling Mediaeval Romance—­The Birthplace of
Harlequin—­Approaching Venice