There are not half a dozen flights of stairs in Pompeii, and no other evidences that the houses were more than one story high.  The people did not live in the clouds, as do the Venetians, the Genoese and Neapolitans of to-day.

We came out from under the solemn mysteries of this city of the Venerable Past—­this city which perished, with all its old ways and its quaint old fashions about it, remote centuries ago, when the Disciples were preaching the new religion, which is as old as the hills to us now—­and went dreaming among the trees that grow over acres and acres of its still buried streets and squares, till a shrill whistle and the cry of “All aboard—­last train for Naples!” woke me up and reminded me that I belonged in the nineteenth century, and was not a dusty mummy, caked with ashes and cinders, eighteen hundred years old.  The transition was startling.  The idea of a railroad train actually running to old dead Pompeii, and whistling irreverently, and calling for passengers in the most bustling and business-like way, was as strange a thing as one could imagine, and as unpoetical and disagreeable as it was strange.

Compare the cheerful life and the sunshine of this day with the horrors the younger Pliny saw here, the 9th of November, A.D. 79, when he was so bravely striving to remove his mother out of reach of harm, while she begged him, with all a mother’s unselfishness, to leave her to perish and save himself.

’By this time the murky darkness had so increased that one might have believed himself abroad in a black and moonless night, or in a chamber where all the lights had been extinguished.  On every hand was heard the complaints of women, the wailing of children, and the cries of men.  One called his father, another his son, and another his wife, and only by their voices could they know each other.  Many in their despair begged that death would come and end their distress.

     “Some implored the gods to succor them, and some believed that this
     night was the last, the eternal night which should engulf the
     universe!

     “Even so it seemed to me—­and I consoled myself for the coming death
     with the reflection:  Behold, the world is passing away!”

* * * * * * * *

After browsing among the stately ruins of Rome, of Baiae, of Pompeii, and after glancing down the long marble ranks of battered and nameless imperial heads that stretch down the corridors of the Vatican, one thing strikes me with a force it never had before:  the unsubstantial, unlasting character of fame.  Men lived long lives, in the olden time, and struggled feverishly through them, toiling like slaves, in oratory, in generalship, or in literature, and then laid them down and died, happy in the possession of an enduring history and a deathless name.  Well, twenty little centuries flutter away, and what is left of these things?  A crazy inscription on a block of stone, which snuffy antiquaries bother over and tangle up and make nothing out of but a bare name (which they spell wrong)—­no history, no tradition, no poetry—­nothing that can give it even a passing interest.  What may be left of General Grant’s great name forty centuries hence?  This—­in the Encyclopedia for A. D. 5868, possibly: