It is said that we shall probably be quarantined at Naples.  Two or three of us prefer not to run this risk.  Therefore, when we are rested, we propose to go in a French steamer to Civita and from thence to Rome, and by rail to Naples.  They do not quarantine the cars, no matter where they got their passengers from.

CHAPTER XXV.

There are a good many things about this Italy which I do not understand —­and more especially I can not understand how a bankrupt Government can have such palatial railroad depots and such marvels of turnpikes.  Why, these latter are as hard as adamant, as straight as a line, as smooth as a floor, and as white as snow.  When it is too dark to see any other object, one can still see the white turnpikes of France and Italy; and they are clean enough to eat from, without a table-cloth.  And yet no tolls are charged.

As for the railways—­we have none like them.  The cars slide as smoothly along as if they were on runners.  The depots are vast palaces of cut marble, with stately colonnades of the same royal stone traversing them from end to end, and with ample walls and ceilings richly decorated with frescoes.  The lofty gateways are graced with statues, and the broad floors are all laid in polished flags of marble.

These things win me more than Italy’s hundred galleries of priceless art treasures, because I can understand the one and am not competent to appreciate the other.  In the turnpikes, the railways, the depots, and the new boulevards of uniform houses in Florence and other cities here, I see the genius of Louis Napoleon, or rather, I see the works of that statesman imitated.  But Louis has taken care that in France there shall be a foundation for these improvements—­money.  He has always the wherewithal to back up his projects; they strengthen France and never weaken her.  Her material prosperity is genuine.  But here the case is different.  This country is bankrupt.  There is no real foundation for these great works.  The prosperity they would seem to indicate is a pretence.  There is no money in the treasury, and so they enfeeble her instead of strengthening.  Italy has achieved the dearest wish of her heart and become an independent State—­and in so doing she has drawn an elephant in the political lottery.  She has nothing to feed it on.  Inexperienced in government, she plunged into all manner of useless expenditure, and swamped her treasury almost in a day.  She squandered millions of francs on a navy which she did not need, and the first time she took her new toy into action she got it knocked higher than Gilderoy’s kite—­to use the language of the Pilgrims.

But it is an ill-wind that blows nobody good.  A year ago, when Italy saw utter ruin staring her in the face and her greenbacks hardly worth the paper they were printed on, her Parliament ventured upon a ‘coup de main’ that would have appalled the stoutest of her statesmen under less desperate circumstances.  They, in a manner, confiscated the domains of the Church!  This in priest-ridden Italy!  This in a land which has groped in the midnight of priestly superstition for sixteen hundred years!  It was a rare good fortune for Italy, the stress of weather that drove her to break from this prison-house.