and breezy, or black and storm-tossed, according to Nature’s mood; and its circling border of mountain domes, clothed with forests, scarred with land-slides, cloven by canons and valleys, and helmeted with glittering snow, fitly framed and finished the noble picture.  The view was always fascinating, bewitching, entrancing.  The eye was never tired of gazing, night or day, in calm or storm; it suffered but one grief, and that was that it could not look always, but must close sometimes in sleep.

We slept in the sand close to the water’s edge, between two protecting boulders, which took care of the stormy night-winds for us.  We never took any paregoric to make us sleep.  At the first break of dawn we were always up and running foot-races to tone down excess of physical vigor and exuberance of spirits.  That is, Johnny was—­but I held his hat.  While smoking the pipe of peace after breakfast we watched the sentinel peaks put on the glory of the sun, and followed the conquering light as it swept down among the shadows, and set the captive crags and forests free.  We watched the tinted pictures grow and brighten upon the water till every little detail of forest, precipice and pinnacle was wrought in and finished, and the miracle of the enchanter complete.  Then to “business.”

That is, drifting around in the boat.  We were on the north shore.  There, the rocks on the bottom are sometimes gray, sometimes white.  This gives the marvelous transparency of the water a fuller advantage than it has elsewhere on the lake.  We usually pushed out a hundred yards or so from shore, and then lay down on the thwarts, in the sun, and let the boat drift by the hour whither it would.  We seldom talked.  It interrupted the Sabbath stillness, and marred the dreams the luxurious rest and indolence brought.  The shore all along was indented with deep, curved bays and coves, bordered by narrow sand-beaches; and where the sand ended, the steep mountain-sides rose right up aloft into space—­rose up like a vast wall a little out of the perpendicular, and thickly wooded with tall pines.

So singularly clear was the water, that where it was only twenty or thirty feet deep the bottom was so perfectly distinct that the boat seemed floating in the air!  Yes, where it was even eighty feet deep.  Every little pebble was distinct, every speckled trout, every hand’s-breadth of sand.  Often, as we lay on our faces, a granite boulder, as large as a village church, would start out of the bottom apparently, and seem climbing up rapidly to the surface, till presently it threatened to touch our faces, and we could not resist the impulse to seize an oar and avert the danger.  But the boat would float on, and the boulder descend again, and then we could see that when we had been exactly above it, it must still have been twenty or thirty feet below the surface.  Down through the transparency of these great depths, the water was not merely transparent, but dazzlingly, brilliantly so.  All objects seen through it had a bright, strong vividness, not only of outline, but of every minute detail, which they would not have had when seen simply through the same depth of atmosphere.  So empty and airy did all spaces seem below us, and so strong was the sense of floating high aloft in mid-nothingness, that we called these boat-excursions “balloon-voyages.”