The hostlers and station-keepers treated the really powerful conductor of the coach merely with the best of what was their idea of civility, but the driver was the only being they bowed down to and worshipped.  How admiringly they would gaze up at him in his high seat as he gloved himself with lingering deliberation, while some happy hostler held the bunch of reins aloft, and waited patiently for him to take it!  And how they would bombard him with glorifying ejaculations as he cracked his long whip and went careering away.

The station buildings were long, low huts, made of sundried, mud-colored bricks, laid up without mortar (adobes, the Spaniards call these bricks, and Americans shorten it to ’dobies).  The roofs, which had no slant to them worth speaking of, were thatched and then sodded or covered with a thick layer of earth, and from this sprung a pretty rank growth of weeds and grass.  It was the first time we had ever seen a man’s front yard on top of his house.  The building consisted of barns, stable-room for twelve or fifteen horses, and a hut for an eating-room for passengers.  This latter had bunks in it for the station-keeper and a hostler or two.  You could rest your elbow on its eaves, and you had to bend in order to get in at the door.  In place of a window there was a square hole about large enough for a man to crawl through, but this had no glass in it.  There was no flooring, but the ground was packed hard.  There was no stove, but the fire-place served all needful purposes.  There were no shelves, no cupboards, no closets.  In a corner stood an open sack of flour, and nestling against its base were a couple of black and venerable tin coffee-pots, a tin teapot, a little bag of salt, and a side of bacon.

By the door of the station-keeper’s den, outside, was a tin wash-basin, on the ground.  Near it was a pail of water and a piece of yellow bar soap, and from the eaves hung a hoary blue woolen shirt, significantly —­but this latter was the station-keeper’s private towel, and only two persons in all the party might venture to use it—­the stage-driver and the conductor.  The latter would not, from a sense of decency; the former would not, because did not choose to encourage the advances of a station-keeper.  We had towels—­in the valise; they might as well have been in Sodom and Gomorrah.  We (and the conductor) used our handkerchiefs, and the driver his pantaloons and sleeves.  By the door, inside, was fastened a small old-fashioned looking-glass frame, with two little fragments of the original mirror lodged down in one corner of it.  This arrangement afforded a pleasant double-barreled portrait of you when you looked into it, with one half of your head set up a couple of inches above the other half.  From the glass frame hung the half of a comb by a string—­but if I had to describe that patriarch or die, I believe I would order some sample coffins.