The day is simply delicious, when we get away from the unozoned air of the land.  The sky is cloudless, and the water sparkles like the top of a glass of champagne.  We intend by and by to sit down and look at it for half a day, basking in the sunshine and pleasing ourselves with the shifting and dancing of the waves.  Now we are busy running about from side to side to see the islands, Governor’s, Castle, Long, Deer, and the others.  When, at length, we find Fort Warren, it is not nearly so grim and gloomy as we had expected, and is rather a pleasure-place than a prison in appearance.  We are conscious, however, of a patriotic emotion as we pass its green turf and peeping guns.  Leaving on our right Lovell’s Island and the Great and Outer Brewster, we stand away north along the jagged Massachusetts shore.  These outer islands look cold and wind-swept even in summer, and have a hardness of outline which is very far from the aspect of summer isles in summer seas.  They are too low and bare for beauty, and all the coast is of the most retiring and humble description.  Nature makes some compensation for this lowness by an eccentricity of indentation which looks very picturesque on the map, and sometimes striking, as where Lynn stretches out a slender arm with knobby Nahant at the end, like a New Zealand war club.  We sit and watch this shore as we glide by with a placid delight.  Its curves and low promontories are getting to be speckled with villages and dwellings, like the shores of the Bay of Naples; we see the white spires, the summer cottages of wealth, the brown farmhouses with an occasional orchard, the gleam of a white beach, and now and then the flag of some many-piazzaed hotel.  The sunlight is the glory of it all; it must have quite another attraction—­that of melancholy—­under a gray sky and with a lead-colored water foreground.

There was not much on the steamboat to distract our attention from the study of physical geography.  All the fashionable travelers had gone on the previous boat or were waiting for the next one.  The passengers were mostly people who belonged in the Provinces and had the listless provincial air, with a Boston commercial traveler or two, and a few gentlemen from the republic of Ireland, dressed in their uncomfortable Sunday clothes.  If any accident should happen to the boat, it was doubtful if there were persons on board who could draw up and pass the proper resolutions of thanks to the officers.  I heard one of these Irish gentlemen, whose satin vest was insufficient to repress the mountainous protuberance of his shirt-bosom, enlightening an admiring friend as to his idiosyncrasies.  It appeared that he was that sort of a man that, if a man wanted anything of him, he had only to speak for it “wunst;” and that one of his peculiarities was an instant response of the deltoid muscle to the brain, though he did not express it in that language.  He went on to explain to his auditor that he was so constituted physically that whenever he saw a fight,