of liquid matter they call starch; the other is a
device made of wires, for an under-propper. Then
there are shirts of cambric, holland, and lawn, wrought
with fine needle-work of silk and curiously stitched,
costing sometimes as much as five pounds. Worse
still are the monstrous doublets, reaching down to
the middle of the thighs, so hard quilted, stuffed,
bombasted, and sewed that the wearer can hardly stoop
down in them. Below these are the gally-hose
of silk, velvet, satin, and damask, reaching below
the knees. So costly are these that “now
it is a small matter to bestow twenty nobles, ten
pound, twenty pound, fortie pound, yea a hundred pound
of one pair of Breeches. (God be merciful unto us!)”
To these gay hose they add nether-socks, curiously
knit with open seams down the leg, with quirks and
clocks about the ankles, and sometimes interlaced
with gold and silver thread as is wonderful to behold.
Time has been when a man could clothe his whole body
for the price of these nether-socks.” Satan
was further let loose in the land by reason of cork
shoes and fine slippers, of all colors, carved, cut,
and stitched with silk, and laced on with gold and
silver, which went flipping and flapping up and down
in the dirt. The jerkins and cloaks are of all
colors and fashions; some short, reaching to the knee;
others dragging on the ground; red, white, black,
violet, yellow, guarded, laced, and faced; hanged
with points and tassels of gold, silver, and silk.
The hilts of daggers, rapiers, and swords are gilt
thrice over, and have scabbards of velvet. And
all this while the poor lie in London streets upon
pallets of straw, or else in the mire and dirt, and
die like dogs!”
Stubbes was a stout old Puritan, bent upon hewing
his way to heaven through all the allurements of this
world, and suspecting a devil in every fair show.
I fear that he looked upon woman as only a vain and
trifling image, a delusive toy, away from whom a man
must set his face. Shakespeare, who was country-bred
when he came up to London, and lived probably on the
roystering South Side, near the theatres and bear-gardens,
seems to have been impressed with the painted faces
of the women. It is probable that only town-bred
women painted. Stubbes declares that the women
of England color their faces with oils, liquors, unguents,
and waters made to that end, thinking to make themselves
fairer than God made them—a presumptuous
audacity to make God untrue in his word; and he heaps
vehement curses upon the immodest practice. To
this follows the trimming and tricking of their heads,
the laying out their hair to show, which is curled,
crisped, and laid out on wreaths and borders from ear
to ear. Lest it should fall down it is under-propped
with forks, wires, and what not. On the edges
of their bolstered hair (for it standeth crested round
about their frontiers, and hanging over their faces
like pendices with glass windows on every side) is
laid great wreaths of gold and silver curiously wrought.