and I fancy I have discovered the right way to do it.  I treat the potato just as I would a cow.  I do not pull them up, and shake them out, and destroy them; but I dig carefully at the side of the hill, remove the fruit which is grown, leaving the vine undisturbed:  and my theory is, that it will go on bearing, and submitting to my exactions, until the frost cuts it down.  It is a game that one would not undertake with a vegetable of tone.

The lettuce is to me a most interesting study.  Lettuce is like conversation:  it must be fresh and crisp, so sparkling that you scarcely notice the bitter in it.  Lettuce, like most talkers, is, however, apt to run rapidly to seed.  Blessed is that sort which comes to a head, and so remains, like a few people I know; growing more solid and satisfactory and tender at the same time, and whiter at the center, and crisp in their maturity.  Lettuce, like conversation, requires a good deal of oil to avoid friction, and keep the company smooth; a pinch of attic salt; a dash of pepper; a quantity of mustard and vinegar, by all means, but so mixed that you will notice no sharp contrasts; and a trifle of sugar.  You can put anything, and the more things the better, into salad, as into a conversation; but everything depends upon the skill of mixing.  I feel that I am in the best society when I am with lettuce.  It is in the select circle of vegetables.  The tomato appears well on the table; but you do not want to ask its origin.  It is a most agreeable parvenu.  Of course, I have said nothing about the berries.  They live in another and more ideal region; except, perhaps, the currant.  Here we see, that, even among berries, there are degrees of breeding.  The currant is well enough, clear as truth, and exquisite in color; but I ask you to notice how far it is from the exclusive hauteur of the aristocratic strawberry, and the native refinement of the quietly elegant raspberry.

I do not know that chemistry, searching for protoplasm, is able to discover the tendency of vegetables.  It can only be found out by outward observation.  I confess that I am suspicious of the bean, for instance.  There are signs in it of an unregulated life.  I put up the most attractive sort of poles for my Limas.  They stand high and straight, like church-spires, in my theological garden,—­lifted up; and some of them have even budded, like Aaron’s rod.  No church-steeple in a New England village was ever better fitted to draw to it the rising generation on Sunday, than those poles to lift up my beans towards heaven.  Some of them did run up the sticks seven feet, and then straggled off into the air in a wanton manner; but more than half of them went gallivanting off to the neighboring grape-trellis, and wound their tendrils with the tendrils of the grape, with a disregard of the proprieties of life which is a satire upon human nature.  And the grape is morally no better.  I think the ancients, who were not troubled with the recondite mystery of protoplasm, were right in the mythic union of Bacchus and Venus.