possessions of her Majesty, to say that in our two
weeks’ acquaintance of them they enjoyed as
delicious weather as ever falls on sea and shore,
with the exception of this day when we crossed the
Bay of Fundy. And this day was only one of those
cool interludes of low color, which an artist would
be thankful to introduce among a group of brilliant
pictures. Such a day rests the traveler, who is
overstimulated by shifting scenes played upon by the
dazzling sun. So the cool gray clouds spread
a grateful umbrella above us as we ran across the
Bay of Fundy, sighted the headlands of the Gut of Digby,
and entered into the Annapolis Basin, and into the
region of a romantic history. The white houses
of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of
washed sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is
true, and made us long for the sun on them. But
as I think of it now, I prefer to have the town and
the pretty hillsides that stand about the basin in
the light we saw them; and especially do I like to
recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the
tide and so blown by the wind that the passengers
who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought
to mind the windy Dutch harbors that Backhuysen painted.
We landed a priest here, and it was a pleasure to
see him as he walked along the high pier, his broad
hat flapping, and the wind blowing his long skirts
away from his ecclesiastical legs.
It was one of the coincidences of life, for which
no one can account, that when we descended upon these
coasts, the Governor-General of the Dominion was abroad
in his Provinces. There was an air of expectation
of him everywhere, and of preparation for his coming;
his lordship was the subject of conversation on the
Digby boat, his movements were chronicled in the newspapers,
and the gracious bearing of the Governor and Lady
Dufferin at the civic receptions, balls, and picnics
was recorded with loyal satisfaction; even a literary
flavor was given to the provincial journals by quotations
from his lordship’s condescension to letters
in the “High Latitudes.” It was not
without pain, however, that even in this un-American
region we discovered the old Adam of journalism in
the disposition of the newspapers of St. John toward
sarcasm touching the well-meant attempts to entertain
the Governor and his lady in the provincial town of
Halifax,—a disposition to turn, in short,
upon the demonstrations of loyal worship the faint
light of ridicule. There were those upon the
boat who were journeying to Halifax to take part in
the civic ball about to be given to their excellencies,
and as we were going in the same direction, we shared
in the feeling of satisfaction which proximity to
the Great often excites.